mescobar
Member
How's the macro algae doing? Would you recommend Mosaic?
JoJo's office tanks
- Thread starter JojosReef
- Start date
JojosReef
Member
Had some unfortunate luck with the tanks and the tank transfer. Tank transfer has been severely delayed (again), so the macros haven't gone to their intended destination and all of them didn't make it. I still have some Galaxaura in the small tank, but the small tank is battling dinos after a few mishaps, and the dinos are covereing the galaxaura, so not sure if it is going to make it.
I don't blame Mosaic for this. This is my fault. I should have waited for the new tank to be running with the refugium set up, but I saw the macro I really really wanted (orange galaxy) and got trigger happy.
JojosReef
Member
Tank update:
I'm finished with the lid and the sump modifications. Still have to get the acrylic "pedestal" polished, and starting to work on drilling holes to install the T slot light mounts and t slot stand bracing. Good times.
Lid:
Flaps for the cord cut-outs. Not planning on using them at first, just one MP40, but might need to add gyres or something else later, so flaps are protection from wrasses jumping.
Finished modifying the sump. The skimmer chamber has been converted to a 1/2 lighted macro, 1/2 cryptic refugium.
Concept:
Need to make a shade for the back half:
Black plexiglass:
Some smoothing out to do still, but overall OK.
Next, need to black out the side glass walls or there's going to be massive algae growth in the filtration and return chambers:
Cut plexiglass, siliconed to glass wall:
Other side:
Add a 4" tall weir wall from filtration chamber to contain a 2-3" bed of sand/mud without substrate blowing everywhere:
Done
Next up, light mount + stand support. Concept:
I'm finished with the lid and the sump modifications. Still have to get the acrylic "pedestal" polished, and starting to work on drilling holes to install the T slot light mounts and t slot stand bracing. Good times.
Lid:
Flaps for the cord cut-outs. Not planning on using them at first, just one MP40, but might need to add gyres or something else later, so flaps are protection from wrasses jumping.
Finished modifying the sump. The skimmer chamber has been converted to a 1/2 lighted macro, 1/2 cryptic refugium.
Concept:
Need to make a shade for the back half:
Black plexiglass:
Some smoothing out to do still, but overall OK.
Next, need to black out the side glass walls or there's going to be massive algae growth in the filtration and return chambers:
Cut plexiglass, siliconed to glass wall:
Other side:
Add a 4" tall weir wall from filtration chamber to contain a 2-3" bed of sand/mud without substrate blowing everywhere:
Done
Next up, light mount + stand support. Concept:
You are an acrylic snapping pro now. LOL. The edges are cleaner if you score both sides of the acrylic (just make sure they match up on both sides) before you snap.
Looking good though. The new tank is coming along nice.
Looking good though. The new tank is coming along nice.
scaramanga
Member
This is awesome Joe! Love the handy work. Was this what that extra rock was going to be used for?
mescobar
Member
Oh man, that's unfortunate. Hope the next macro attempt is more successful.
JojosReef
Member
Yep, I am making a relatively narrow arch to go into the extra space in the DT (~12" length extra) and then a pile of rocks for the cryptic zone of the refugium. Some smaller rocks as holdfasts for macro in the lighted zone.
JojosReef
Member
Lots to update in this build! I've been working slowly, chipping away at my To-Dos while managing work, travel, family, holidays... it's going to get done and soon!
Starting with the light mount. The original idea is detailed in a post above. I was going to hang 4+ Noopsyche lights over the tank to give it an even spread and not break the bank, because I've already got 4 Noopsyche K7 Minis.
Mats: Zyltech 3030 (mm) aluminum extrusion T slots
Goal: attach directly to the stand:
(not yet attached)
Then I got to thinking, "that's a lot of bricks". I started shopping for single unit lights like ReefBreeders and Orpheks. Was just getting to the point where I was hopelessly considering buying a new expensive light and suffering the inevitable consequences, when an Orphek Atlantik V4 with Icon upgrade hit the forum! Perfect spread for my 48"x20"x20" tank!
And here it is! Got the T slots all bolted in.
Added some felt padding to reduce vibration, noise and scratching from contact with the aluminum:
Light's up! Slides right into the T slot with its button screws!
Light wasn't working consistently at first (would randomly power off or not power on), so had a bit of work to do first.
Bit of wire corrosion burning the power supply wires. Turns out easy fix. Cut back wires, compressed air can and some isopropyl alcohol and all clean!
Houston, we have lift-off!
Good with lights for now. How about the sump. Sump was all modified in above post. Now for the sump rock and the additional display rock. Fortunately, I have some OLD dried out Fiji and Marshall Islands rocks in the warehouse. This stuff is excellent.
(left is rock for display, right is rock for sump cryptic zone and part for macro zone):
Display rock side-view. A nice arch!
And got it cooking!
Now for the stand. The most challenging aspect of this build. I am reinforcing the stand just for extra safety. To do this, I am using Zyltech 2040 aluminum extrusion to brace the inside of the marine plywood stand. Here is the general idea:
And the plan is to bolt in T slots to the bottom of the plywood top of the stand to prevent bowing and provide some additional rigidity to avoid rocking side-to-side. Ideally I would have a full perimeter "rectangle" connected by L brackets, but the plumbing hole gets in the way and there is no way to run a long length of T slot on the back through the panels without cutting a hole in one of the sides. Not worth it. So here's the design:
This would be the view from inside the stand looking up at the bottom side of the top of the stand. The dark brown lines are the plywood side and vertical panels on either side of the ATO (weight bearing).
The idea for attaching the T slots is to drill M5 holes in the top plywood and use a forstner bit to countersink the head of the screws (M5 flanged head screws) and attach them to T nuts in the 2040. There is one 2020 bar next to the ATO panel so it doesn't cover up the wire/tubing pass-though holes. Today I started drilling and just finished the first profile in the front (test run):
Total of 11 M5 bolts attaching the T slot. It feels very stable. Next will be to attach all of the other profiles and then "seat" them by bolting L brackets to the bottom and screwing the L brackets to the plywood.
Next steps:
1. Finish stand reinforcements
2. Put together the control board and attach Hydros devices
3. Attach electrical (power strips, power supplies, etc.) to stand
4. Move stand and tank to final resting place and get WET!
Speaking of final resting place. I got a super shwanky new desk from a neighboring office that was closing up and donating their furniture. So I redesigned my office.
Before:
After:
Now see how long it stays tidy...
Starting with the light mount. The original idea is detailed in a post above. I was going to hang 4+ Noopsyche lights over the tank to give it an even spread and not break the bank, because I've already got 4 Noopsyche K7 Minis.
Mats: Zyltech 3030 (mm) aluminum extrusion T slots
Goal: attach directly to the stand:
(not yet attached)
Then I got to thinking, "that's a lot of bricks". I started shopping for single unit lights like ReefBreeders and Orpheks. Was just getting to the point where I was hopelessly considering buying a new expensive light and suffering the inevitable consequences, when an Orphek Atlantik V4 with Icon upgrade hit the forum! Perfect spread for my 48"x20"x20" tank!
And here it is! Got the T slots all bolted in.
Added some felt padding to reduce vibration, noise and scratching from contact with the aluminum:
Light's up! Slides right into the T slot with its button screws!
Light wasn't working consistently at first (would randomly power off or not power on), so had a bit of work to do first.
Bit of wire corrosion burning the power supply wires. Turns out easy fix. Cut back wires, compressed air can and some isopropyl alcohol and all clean!
Houston, we have lift-off!
Good with lights for now. How about the sump. Sump was all modified in above post. Now for the sump rock and the additional display rock. Fortunately, I have some OLD dried out Fiji and Marshall Islands rocks in the warehouse. This stuff is excellent.
(left is rock for display, right is rock for sump cryptic zone and part for macro zone):
Display rock side-view. A nice arch!
And got it cooking!
Now for the stand. The most challenging aspect of this build. I am reinforcing the stand just for extra safety. To do this, I am using Zyltech 2040 aluminum extrusion to brace the inside of the marine plywood stand. Here is the general idea:
And the plan is to bolt in T slots to the bottom of the plywood top of the stand to prevent bowing and provide some additional rigidity to avoid rocking side-to-side. Ideally I would have a full perimeter "rectangle" connected by L brackets, but the plumbing hole gets in the way and there is no way to run a long length of T slot on the back through the panels without cutting a hole in one of the sides. Not worth it. So here's the design:
This would be the view from inside the stand looking up at the bottom side of the top of the stand. The dark brown lines are the plywood side and vertical panels on either side of the ATO (weight bearing).
The idea for attaching the T slots is to drill M5 holes in the top plywood and use a forstner bit to countersink the head of the screws (M5 flanged head screws) and attach them to T nuts in the 2040. There is one 2020 bar next to the ATO panel so it doesn't cover up the wire/tubing pass-though holes. Today I started drilling and just finished the first profile in the front (test run):
Total of 11 M5 bolts attaching the T slot. It feels very stable. Next will be to attach all of the other profiles and then "seat" them by bolting L brackets to the bottom and screwing the L brackets to the plywood.
Next steps:
1. Finish stand reinforcements
2. Put together the control board and attach Hydros devices
3. Attach electrical (power strips, power supplies, etc.) to stand
4. Move stand and tank to final resting place and get WET!
Speaking of final resting place. I got a super shwanky new desk from a neighboring office that was closing up and donating their furniture. So I redesigned my office.
Before:
After:
Now see how long it stays tidy...
D
Deleted member 20245
Guest
Looks great! Ditto what Jimbo said -- I would get nothing done since I'll be tinkering with it all day long... lol
JojosReef
Member
Orphek Atlantik V4 with Icon upgrade. Newly purchased from the haiguys! So far I really like this light and will start PAR testing as soon as it's wet. @haiguys sprrad looks nice. Thinking on the future, wondering if I should attach a 12" OR4 bar on either side angled in to get light on the sides if the rocks create shade.
My opinion is get the pair of light bars. I’ve seen some magazines with tanks lit up using only those bars and they have very nice looking tanks.
JojosReef
Member
Might as well give this an update while I'm at it!
Tank setup still plodding along. I've moved it into my actual office and it's in its permanent home!
Leak testing bit by bit. Which is to say that I first added about 20 gal of saltwater and left it over the weekend. Came back, no leaks and seams look fine. Added sand, rocks and another 20 gal. Still going fine. Next will add another 30-40 gal and that'll be it for the leak test, and then to the plumbing test and dialing in the return flow. That has me nervous. This is my first tank with a sump--all AIOs before.
Control board is coming along, but already looking tight with the electrical!
About halfway there. Still have the Helio and the MP40 to add, leaving space for another MP40 and/or maybe an Inkbird (although Hydros is serving the same function... maybe just for redundancy).
FYI, for electrical, I've got two plug-in GFCI cords (one plugged in so far):
And two surge protected strips that each plug into one of the GFCI extensions (one currently plugged in):
I need to mount those onto the right hand side of this section of the stand. Gonna bit tight, but if I tuck most of the wiring between those two pegboards, then perhaps it won't be too cluttered!
Tank setup still plodding along. I've moved it into my actual office and it's in its permanent home!
Leak testing bit by bit. Which is to say that I first added about 20 gal of saltwater and left it over the weekend. Came back, no leaks and seams look fine. Added sand, rocks and another 20 gal. Still going fine. Next will add another 30-40 gal and that'll be it for the leak test, and then to the plumbing test and dialing in the return flow. That has me nervous. This is my first tank with a sump--all AIOs before.
Control board is coming along, but already looking tight with the electrical!
About halfway there. Still have the Helio and the MP40 to add, leaving space for another MP40 and/or maybe an Inkbird (although Hydros is serving the same function... maybe just for redundancy).
FYI, for electrical, I've got two plug-in GFCI cords (one plugged in so far):
And two surge protected strips that each plug into one of the GFCI extensions (one currently plugged in):
I need to mount those onto the right hand side of this section of the stand. Gonna bit tight, but if I tuck most of the wiring between those two pegboards, then perhaps it won't be too cluttered!
