Plumbing help needed

[pirate2876]

Hey guys, I am going to start plumbing my new tank here shortly. My questions is what is the quietest, most effective way to plumb the drains? The tank has a floating overflow box with 2 2' drains on it. Should I try and get the overflows to siphon with a elbows(no caps), or try and do a durso type with capped ends and airline?

I want to be able to move as much water as possible down the drains but, keep it quiet. I also need to reduce the 2" down to 1" when it goes into the sump. My sump has two 1" inlets for the drains.

 

[djam]

I went the bean animal style (3 drains) and will never go back. Very quiet and hard as hell to clog..but you would have to get another hole drilled for the emergency.

http://www.beananimal.com/projects/silent-and-fail-safe-aquarium-overflow-system.aspx

 

[newtothis]

I plumbed "RVJ" tank awhile back with same similar setup as yours. Super quite ..

 

[Smite]

That tank looks sweet. I went herbie drain and love it. Syphon is very quiet and easily adjustable.

 

[xmas_one]

+1 for Herbie

 

[pirate2876]

Okay, I got one side mocked up and wanted to get some feedback. I have two drains from the tank starting at 1 3/4" being reduced to 1" going into the sump. I used 90 elbows from the drains but, I am a bit worried there wont be enough flow through the 1" drains. The intakes in the overflow are 90 degree elbows pointed down as well. Im hoping the siphon wont be a problem.

Anyone see any problems?

 

[djam]

why are you reducing it?

I'd recommend a gate valve over a ball valve, better/finer control.

 

[pirate2876]

why are you reducing it?

I'd recommend a gate valve over a ball valve, better/finer control.

Those inlets on the sump are 1" and not interchangeable. There isn't' room enough to bore out the holes bigger.

Noted on gate valve vs. ball.

 

[xmas_one]

I'd suggest you reduce the main drain at the bulkhead, keep the secondary/emergency drain at 2" and have it go somewhere else in your sump. Also, bear in mind 1" under full siphon can do ~900+gph.

Depending on the size of your return pump chamber, "emergency" overflows may or may not be a concern. If you have a small return pump section/chamber in your sump, it can only pump so much before it starts sucking air.

Bonus question: Why are your drains NOT being plumbed to drain into the filter socks?

 

[pirate2876]

I'd suggest you reduce the main drain at the bulkhead, keep the secondary/emergency drain at 2" and have it go somewhere else in your sump. Also, bear in mind 1" under full siphon can do ~900+gph.

Depending on the size of your return pump chamber, "emergency" overflows may or may not be a concern. If you have a small return pump section/chamber in your sump, it can only pump so much before it starts sucking air.

That kind of ruins the point of having the inlets go straight to sump. I was hoping to reduce the noise as much as possible with the available drains. Sigh..

I think the return section in the sump should be sufficient at 6″ x 14.5″. I have a Waveline Dc pump as a return so, there should be no concern dialing the pump down.

Thanks for contributing. That is exactly the kind of stuff I need to learn.

 

[xmas_one]

That kind of ruins the point of having the inlets go straight to sump. I was hoping to reduce the noise as much as possible with the available drains. Sigh..

I think the return section in the sump should be sufficient at 6″ x 14.5″. I have a Waveline Dc pump as a return so, there should be no concern dialing the pump down.

Thanks for contributing. That is exactly the kind of stuff I need to learn.

Socks or no socks, if you are doing a herbie, the main/full siphon drain will be very quiet, the secondary/emergency drain will have but a trickle of water going down it and will also be very quiet.

http://gmacreef.com/herbie-overflow-reef-tank-plumbing-method-basics/

 

[dorkymk3]

Change the 90 and use a T instead going off the drain behind the tank. You can make a durso style drain which will be far more efficient.

 

[MadMax]

haven't read through all the responses however necking down your drains to 1" is a recipe for disaster.
You never want to impede the flow of your drains

 

[pirate2876]

haven't read through all the responses however necking down your drains to 1" is a recipe for disaster.
You never want to impede the flow of your drains

I was thinking this over last night and I think I can open up the input drains to the sump if I took those bulkheads out and drilled bigger holes. Then I could just run the pipes sans bulkhead directly into the sump. I have to take a look to see the how much room is there but, I'm sure one of those holes could be increased in size no problem. The other I could run as the emergency at 1" if needed.

 

[xmas_one]

First off, dursos are not more efficient than a full siphon, dursos are 1/3 as efficient at moving water and 10x louder.

Second, using a 1" drain is not necessarily a "recipe for disaster".

What is the maximum flow rate your return is rated for?

 

[pirate2876]

First off, dursos are not more efficient than a full siphon, dursos are 1/3 as efficient at moving water and 10x louder.

Second, using a 1" drain is not necessarily a "recipe for disaster".

What is the maximum flow rate your return is rated for?

All the premade sumps have 1" inlets so, I think on a full siphon, it would be fine. I have a larger return pump but, its a DC pump(Waveline DC10000II) that I can power down if necessary. I dont plan on running it 100% anyhow. I do plan on making an elaborate return manifold that could provide water to the reactor, cal reactor, uv, and anything else I want.

I agree that a siphon will be better than a standpipe(durso).

 

[pirate2876]

Okay, so I think I have the plumbing like I want it. All I need to do is get the gate valve on the main siphon and I should be good to go. Please let me know if you see any errors I should correct.

The return on the left will be connected to a chiller so, that is why it is saggy. I had to reuse the 3/4 line to the chiller since I couldn't find the 1" adapters for the chiller.

 

[pirate2876]

Some lighting here. A Hydra26 and 48" T5's mounted. Will bring over the 250w halides and the actinic LED strip when I strip the current tank.

Three fans in the canopy for circulation. The two side fans pull in, the top mounted fan pushes out.