If you're already on AFR I would stick the course, and bump up Mg and Ca manually over a week (possibly use 2-part recipes, or just target) and see if it stays. If you just need to correct ~20ppm Ca every couple months, I wouldn't switch dosing over thatI want to maintain my alk and raise mag and calc, but im dosing AFR right now
I think I may have to switch to 2 part unless a mixed reef can handle a higher alkalinity.
Any thoughts?
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I think ill raise my AFR a little, try to see how things do at 10 dkh alkalinity, gonna do it slowly
This is the way. Simply add the components you need to raise by having extra 2 parts (actually 3) on hand. What are your current numbers and how much you want to raise? It may turn out that you really don't need to raise anything. Remember, don't get stuck on set numbers, but ranges. If your calcium is between 380-450, good, if mag is 1280-1450, fine. Look up natural sea water parameters and you may be surprised at what you find.If you're already on AFR I would stick the course, and bump up Mg and Ca manually over a week (possibly use 2-part recipes, or just target) and see if it stays. If you just need to correct ~20ppm Ca every couple months, I wouldn't switch dosing over that
What's your CUC like? Turbos and tuxedo urchins are your best bet against turf algae (tuxedo's being the primary). Algae isn't a nutrient issue, it's a herbivore issue. I'm not sure you need to add a bunch of stuff (AB+) to the tank when it's this young. I think this is where too many people go wrong, by adding too much stuff to a new system without giving the system time to mature and develop (benthic succession), especially when starting from dry rock (don't worry, I'm not going to step on my soapbox about dry rock now).Starting to see turf algae come back to the tank after a few months of not having it. Recent changes were feeding AB+ 2 times and reefroids once. Phosphate and Nitrate both hit close to 0
I need to stock back up on those, I was on the edge about tuxedo urchins because I've heard they're bulldozers and might eat zoas/other corals. I was talking to some people and they recommended feeding AB+, how mature of a system are you talking about? Thank youWhat's your CUC like? Turbos and tuxedo urchins are your best bet against turf algae (tuxedo's being the primary). Algae isn't a nutrient issue, it's a herbivore issue. I'm not sure you need to add a bunch of stuff (AB+) to the tank when it's this young. I think this is where too many people go wrong, by adding too much stuff to a new system without giving the system time to mature and develop (benthic succession), especially when starting from dry rock (don't worry, I'm not going to step on my soapbox about dry rock now).
Tuxedos are fine, but anything that's not glued down will most likely get pushed around. I've never experienced tuxedos eating corals, ever.I need to stock back up on those, I was on the edge about tuxedo urchins because I've heard they're bulldozers and might eat zoas/other corals. I was talking to some people and they recommended feeding AB+, how mature of a system are you talking about? Thank you
The tank is over a year old, around a year and a half, I started it off with one piece of live rock and a bunch of dry rock. I have a couple of fish but I have not been feeding that often, I also haven't been dosing AB+ or any other foods that much the past week. The corals take up the majority of the tank, maybe 60 percent of the footprint is occupied by them.Tuxedos are fine, but anything that's not glued down will most likely get pushed around. I've never experienced tuxedos eating corals, ever.
With your nutrients being low, how many fish do you have and how often are you feeding them? The other thing you can do is turn off your skimmer during the day and only use it at night when lights are off. If this is a dry rock tank with no live rock, then it may take a year or so before it's mature enough to stabilize. It also depends on the biomass of corals?