Borrow/Rent Par Meter

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#1
I want to switch my T5s to LED fixture but want to minimize the death. Anyone have a par meter I could borrow? I can make it quick. I'm gonna match the par and then ramp up slowly.

Help a brotha out!
 
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#2
Bump! C'mon fellas (or ladies)...I know at least a few of you have them. I'll leave a deposit even if you're worried about your meter. Or I'll buy beers and dinner if you want to bring it over and get the readings for me. I know you spent some cash on it and maybe I can help offset that cost by providing a fair fee for it's use. Not trying to screw or inconvenience anyone...I'll work around your schedule/needs.

I'm transitioning from T5 to LED and want to start at matching par and slowly ramp up the LED so that I can kill as little as possible. Without some help I'll be flying blind and either provide too little or too much at the start.
 

jbaeza83

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#3
Hey Omar, I believe someone on here posted before that PAR on LEDs is different than PAR on T5s, not really sure though, im sure someone with more knowledge will chime in. I would just switch then fixture and start low then raise be 2-3% every few days. JM2C.
 
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#4
Someone's using mine at the moment. Should get it back in a week. If you haven't found one by then you are welcome to use it
 
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Hey Omar, I believe someone on here posted before that PAR on LEDs is different than PAR on T5s, not really sure though, im sure someone with more knowledge will chime in. I would just switch then fixture and start low then raise be 2-3% every few days. JM2C.
I think it was Cody based on the presentation by someone who's name I can't remember at on of last year's SCMAS meetings. I was at the meeting too and agree that they aren't apples to apples but I gotta start somewhere. It has more to do with how the meter reads par rather than a true difference in the par itself, I think. Like I said, I just want to do it as safely as possible. Push comes to shove or I lose patience and I'll be taking your 2 cents to the bank!

Someone's using mine at the moment. Should get it back in a week. If you haven't found one by then you are welcome to use it
Thanks James! I'll likely hit you up since you're close to me. I'll send you a PM in a week or so.

BTW- the tricolor valida I got from you is starting to color up. By the time I was done dipping in ReVive, I thought it was dead because it was so white. I figured I would leave it in the tank for a few days in case and after a few days I started seeing polyps. In the last week I've seen the polyps start to turn yellow/green and the body is starting to slowly color up. Thanks again for the frag!

If you can wait till after max. I should have imeas par meter back
I'm already chomping at the bit to setup the light but if I can't borrow one by then I'll definitely get a hold of you. It was nice to meet you at SCRK this past meeting. I'm impressed by your ability to have a family and attend 3 club meetings a month...you're like my idol, lol.
 

Six2seven

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#7
Hey Omar, I believe someone on here posted before that PAR on LEDs is different than PAR on T5s, not really sure though, im sure someone with more knowledge will chime in. I would just switch then fixture and start low then raise be 2-3% every few days. JM2C.
Yea i think PAR on the blues register different. I thought i understood PAR until i switched to LEDs about a year ago and nothing made sense. I started too low and corals seemed to brown out but the PAR was more than I had with halides. Then i raised it too fast and burned some corals. either way it took some time for corals to adjust but the numbers didnt make sense to me.
 
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#8
Yep that blue really doesn't register at all. I would get all white on at 80 par then add the blue which is triple the amount of chips and get 84-96 par. Main thing is finding where the hot spots are so you can rescape.

Optics make beams of light really hard for some coral to not melt. That why I have no optics and even with a thick acrylic cover I get good coverage.

Start high. And hope someone lets you borrow meter.
 
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#9
The thing is you can have a ton of PAR in the say 515 nm range. It will register on your meter. The thing is that spectrum is not really used by corals for the most part. So that PAR is not useable for photosynthesis right? So what's important is PUR(photosyntheticly USEABLE radiation)
Nano meters of light like 420 or 460 is much more USEABLE by the zooxanthele and are absorbed. The down side is that cheap meters like an apogee or even a licor can under value some of the blue spectrum by 8-11 percent. It's really meant to be used as a very very rough guide.
 
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The thing is you can have a ton of PAR in the say 515 nm range. It will register on your meter. The thing is that spectrum is not really used by corals for the most part. So that PAR is not useable for photosynthesis right? So what's important is PUR(photosyntheticly USEABLE radiation)
Nano meters of light like 420 or 460 is much more USEABLE by the zooxanthele and are absorbed. The down side is that cheap meters like an apogee or even a licor can under value some of the blue spectrum by 8-11 percent. It's really meant to be used as a very very rough guide.
Do you recommend one meter brand over another? Beggars can't be choosers but maybe I can find the one that'll give me the best shot.

And then maybe find out where the matching par is and then decrease by 10% as a starting point? I'd imagine too low is better long term than too much.

I suppose either way I should prepare for death. You'd think I'd be used to it by now...lol.
 
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#11
For what you want to do any type is fine. You are just using it as a rough gauge to see if you are blasting the corals with too many photons.
 
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#12
What type of chips are in the fixture? Is it cree? What brand? What wattage? How many total? What milliamps are they run at? What percentage are they at? Is it set? Can you lower and higher intensity with a program? All these things play factors.
"photon is a photon." Units of energy is more important than intensity for short periods of time.
 
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#13
What type of chips are in the fixture? Is it cree? What brand? What wattage? How many total? What milliamps are they run at? What percentage are they at? Is it set? Can you lower and higher intensity with a program? All these things play factors.
"photon is a photon." Units of energy is more important than intensity for short periods of time.
Maxspect Razor

Cree XLamp XT-E and Cree XLamp XP-E

Dunno individual chip wattage (the fixture has a total of 26 chips)

120 total watts

1300mA

Percentage can be user controlled manually, user programmed or based on programmed presets
 
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#14
I just switched from (MH15+ 2 T5s to LEDs) x fixtures to one Radion, started at 50% max for 6 hours. Everything was good. I'm at 65% after 3 weeks and going to hold there as everything seems happy. I had a few zoas down on the sand that didn't do well, but everything else is happy. (a few hundred other zoas, Frogspawns, Torches, shrooms, candy, leathers).
 
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#15
when I put it at 80 and 100% it was blasting the tank with too much light when I tested. Tank is 20" deep.
 
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#16
The thing is you can have a ton of PAR in the say 515 nm range. It will register on your meter. The thing is that spectrum is not really used by corals for the most part. So that PAR is not useable for photosynthesis right? So what's important is PUR(photosyntheticly USEABLE radiation)
Nano meters of light like 420 or 460 is much more USEABLE by the zooxanthele and are absorbed. The down side is that cheap meters like an apogee or even a licor can under value some of the blue spectrum by 8-11 percent. It's really meant to be used as a very very rough guide.
Let's not forget that the Apogee meter also reads low for any blue light source which also has the vast majority of it's output in the blue range. This includes 20K MH and T5 blue & violet bulbs. For the vast majority of us the difference is not anything to be concerned with because dang near all of us in SoCal are heavy on the blue spectrum.

I do have to disagree with the LiCor statement though. Although the Licor is not perfect, it is widely considered the gold standard for PAR measurments and it's deficiencies are down below 415nm which is not the vast output of our choices for reef lighting.
 
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#17
The licor is a better tool yes but still has its downfalls. The only way to know for sure is to use a spectrometer. Cost wise it's not realistic for most. I am privileged to use one and have tested first hand the difference between all 3.
 

solitude127

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#18
Maxspect Razor

Cree XLamp XT-E and Cree XLamp XP-E

Dunno individual chip wattage (the fixture has a total of 26 chips)

120 total watts

1300mA

Percentage can be user controlled manually, user programmed or based on programmed presets
Gee, where did you that from? :)
Glad you're using it and not selling it
 
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#19
Gee, where did you that from? :)
Glad you're using it and not selling it
Lol...ain't no secret! Thanks SCRK! I put up a thread and got a little more hate than I anticipated...

The thought of selling it crossed my mind but I would NEVER buy something like this for myself which is exactly why I want to keep it. Not to mention it makes my tank look baller, even if it is a 10K look. And since the two channels are adjustable I can get whatever look I want so long as I keep the white channel down.
 
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#20
The licor is a better tool yes but still has its downfalls. The only way to know for sure is to use a spectrometer. Cost wise it's not realistic for most. I am privileged to use one and have tested first hand the difference between all 3.
Zzzzzzzz.......zzzzzzzzz oh you said something.
 

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