Ground probe

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#29
Everything that is powered on your reef should be GFCI protected. If you are installing GFCI wall outlets, you need to install one GFCI for every circuit used on the tank. The GFCI wall outlet should be installed on the first outlet of the circuit's series. When done properly, the "downstream" outlets on that circuit will also be protected by that upstream GFCI.

If you are using a plug-in type GFCIs, like a GFCI enabled powerstrip or extension cord, you need to have one for every circuit that your aquarium plugs into. Again, all equipment would need to be powered through those GFCI powerstrips/cords.

To my knowledge, it does not matter whether the grounding probe is plugged into a GFCI outlet or not. Why? A GFCI monitors the amount of current flowing from hot to neutral. In other words it does not monitor what current flows through the ground prong. If there is greater than a 4-5 mAmp imbalance between hot and neutral, it trips the circuit. It can do this as quickly as 1/30th of a second.

I would plug the ground probe into the GFCI anyway.
 
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#30
Please note that GFCI wall outlets need to be installed properly (while circuits are off) and tested regularly. Have an electrician so this if you are uncomfortable. They can also wear out if tripped too many times. Last word of warning: do not use the test/reset buttons on a GFCI like a light switch, or you may find that it does not work properly when you need it most.

HTH.
 

zigginit

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#31
hum i should look into this. i notice a small tingling when i put my hand into the water and my arm touches the reflectors of the t5. funny because the reflector only touches the glass of the bulb.
 
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#33
hum i should look into this. i notice a small tingling when i put my hand into the water and my arm touches the reflectors of the t5. funny because the reflector only touches the glass of the bulb.
I think you should! This ground probe thing is awesome and I think it's a MUST HAVE for all us reefers since we do all put our hands in our tanks and have a lot of electrical components powering our tanks. I'm totally gonna get it for my tank :). Better safe than sorry:top:
 

zigginit

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#34
weird thing is it only happens when lights are on. so strange. i think its something to do with the static flow throught the bulbs.
 
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#36
hum i should look into this. i notice a small tingling when i put my hand into the water and my arm touches the reflectors of the t5. funny because the reflector only touches the glass of the bulb.
If i were you I would use an ammeter attached to copper wires and check the saltwater around any poweheads for current leaks.

I always thought that grounding probes were essential, but possibly not large enough. I believe you would need a small lightning rod grounding the tank if a T5/MH ballast or socket fell in the highly conductive water.

When I clean my displays I use a ladder with rubber feet just in case. When I clean my sumps I wear rubber aquarium gloves that go above the elbow. Of course I also unplug everything.

Humans have so little tolerance to A/C. Just a few amps can cause cardiac fibrillation. Its even worse if the person has an implanted pacemaker or defibrillator, or if there is a break in the skin.

Safety first, every time!
 
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#37
I gave this topic much thought when I setup my 180g reef. Some ideas to minimize risk of getting eletrocuted:

1. use grounding probes in the display, sump. cons: none
2. install separate GFCIs. cons: trip when away at work/vacation, whole tank dies of lack of circulation and temp extremes
3. use external returns pumps. also decreases heat, easier to service. cons: noisier, greater chance of leaks
4. use external skimmer. also easier to service. cons: less skimming power per amp, noisier, greater chance of leaks
5. use external/in-line heater. cons: only know of hydor 200w heater (not powerful enough), harder to service
6. use external powerhead (vortech). cons: expensive
7. use closed-loop. also decreases heat. cons: greater chance of leaks
8. place ballasts as far away as possible & above the water line (mine are actually through wall in the garage). cons: the sockets/bulbs still need to be above the tank, could still fall in.
9. use LEDs, less amperage=smaller shock. cons: expensive
10. use only inline chillers and UV. cons: none

Most of you must think Im paranoid. But after the high of having a successful reef wore off, I realized that the centerpiece of my house was also its largest liability. It could electrocute me, burn down the house (with me & my family in it) or cause tens of thousands of $ in water damage.
 

5ft24

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#38
If i were you I would use an ammeter attached to copper wires and check the saltwater around any poweheads for current leaks.

Humans have so little tolerance to A/C. Just a few amps can cause cardiac fibrillation. Its even worse if the person has an implanted pacemaker or defibrillator, or if there is a break in the skin.

Safety first, every time!
NEVER put copper wires into the tank.
Copper ions are leached very rapidly off the wires, and inverts are EXTREMELY sensitive to copper (they die!)


And defibrillation can be caused by as little as 60ma if it's AC...
100ma if it's DC
 

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