Jimbo’s CDA 250

Jimbo327

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I have no idea where I’m getting my corals from. Back in the days, we just bought off other reefers or go to frag swaps (someone’s backyard). If you ordered online, it was ORA. My system was never good enough to get into the Tyree SPS.

I understand things have changed dramatically. I think there are so many awesome reefers locally, I’ll probably just see who has extra frags and go from there.

But I think it’ll be awhile until I can get the system stable enough to do SPS. I’m using bleached dead rocks, so no biome at all. I’ll try to get sand and rubble from other reefers to seed my tank when it’s wet. Just baby steps.
 
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If you already went through the trouvle of disinfecting and sterilizing the rocks, why would you turn around and add sand or rock from someone elses tank. I did just that I got some cured rock out of an absolutely beautiful(1200g) tank. Despite dipping my first corals and copper medicating my first fish. I wound up with pyramid snails, tube worms, bristle worms, aiptaisia, asterina star fish and zoa spiders that ate my first frags. Then upon adding my freshly medicated and 1 month QT observed tang fish(first fish in 18 years) he came down with ich. I then had to pull out the rock to catch his ass and medicate him again then fallow my DT for 76 days to let the parasite life cycle complete.

During the second medication period I cycled another 20g holding tank with a Fluval 107 canister filter in order to house and observe my fish until the DT was able to accept him again.

I am just now getting back into this hobby after 18 years away. I used to have a very healthy(ran for 5 years, never lost a coral, and only lost 1 fish)and well stocked 55g tank and was in such a rush to get back there again that I forgot what it took to achieve that last tank in the first place.....PATIENCE!

I returned to the hobby back in March and due to my enthusiasm and lack of patience am just now getting to add livestock back into my display. This past 6 months has been very trying and if it weren't for the support and encouragement of my wife I would have gave up. I am glad I stuck it out but it has been very trying.

While medicating the Tang fish to cure the ich infection I cycled a 20g tank using the fishless method and I am really pleased with the results. I added nitrifying bacteria from Dr. Tims and straight industrial ammonia from the hardware store. I then monitored the ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate using test strips. Once I could add ammonia to 2ppm and see it turn to nitrite then nitrate over night I did a 100% water change and added the fish. The whole process took 5 weeks and I just did it in the garage on my work bench. The nitrifying bacteria are not super temp. sensitive and need no light so I just ran the canister filter and added ammonia to keep the level up. I found this method to be highly effective due to the fact that you can push the ammonia and nitrite toxicity so much farther than you ever could just adding fish or live rock/sand thus creating a much stronger and more robust biofilter without ever adding a fish. I wound up medicating and adding a blenny to this tank as well during my fallow period both him and my tang are now in the DT. It may sound like a lot of work(it was) but how much time and effort have we all put into keeping our tanks healthy and happy. Just look at this thread from the begining and Jimbo is just now getting ready to add water.

I appologize for the long winded reply but I hope that this tale can help others avoid the excited rush that caused me so much strife. I see that Jimbo has put a lot of hard work and effort into his tank and with his patience it is becoming one of the nicest start ups I have watched. Keep up the good work and don't lose patience now. It will all pay off in the end.

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Jimbo327

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I don't think we can keep our tanks completely pest free. And it's one of the reasons that I installed a large 90W UV to manage some of these pest.

I plan to do the fishless cycle as well. I have some Microbacter 7 to try to seed the rocks/sand. But it would be nice to get a large biome range. Getting sand was old school way of getting some bacteria diversity. Maybe that's not the new way of thinking anymore.
 

Ohiostreetz

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I don't think we can keep our tanks completely pest free. And it's one of the reasons that I installed a large 90W UV to manage some of these pest.

I plan to do the fishless cycle as well. I have some Microbacter 7 to try to seed the rocks/sand. But it would be nice to get a large biome range. Getting sand was old school way of getting some bacteria diversity. Maybe that's not the new way of thinking anymore.
I had asked a friend if he would toss a few of those media bio balls in his sump in a mesh bag for me so I could just toss those in the sump while cycling my system worked great and the bag kept most the common pest off ie aptasia and bad snails.

I have done a few cycles using only bottled bacteria with success but for sure the more strains and various bacteria that can be added the better in my opinion.

I just looked through the entire build thread and I’m throughly impressed with the attention to detail and thoughtfulness you put into this build. Great job and I look forward to this setup in a year or two.
 
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Hey Jimbo, I like the idea of using the bioballs to help cycle your set up at least these could be well rinsed and checked for many of the pests that were lurking in the deep reaches of my live rock. I am aware that running a pest free reef is impossible but, without having an established clean up crew and pest death squad(tangs, blennies, wrasses, shrimp, crabs etc.) these things can rapidly become infestations rather than just pests. Pests are part of balace too. Just like spiders in the back yard keep the other insects in check and owl boxes/cats keep the rodents down. I figure if I start clean I can have a better chance of keeping these critters in check while I get my cleaners in place.

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Jimbo327

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Anyone got some seeded bioballs? 😁

I just got the replacement DI resin from BRS, so I will swap out the exhausted resin later and be back in business. I should be able to start filling the tank by tonight. Excited.
 

Ohiostreetz

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It is officially wet! :cool:

Running the RODI directly into tank. At 100GPD, it’ll take 3-4 days to fill. Wish me luck as I didn’t leak check any of the plumbing. I started the fill today, so I would have the Labor Day weekend to deal with any issues.
View attachment 111357
I’m jealous of the stratons I’ve wanted them since they came to market and the newest generation look great but yet again the price on them went up higher than before. I know I’m this hobby you really pay for quality.
 

Jimbo327

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2 of my Stratons were used, so I didn't have to pay full price. But yeah, it's definitely pricey. I talked with the person that sold the Stratons to me...he said the PAR is not that great and the lights needs to be really low to get enough PAR for SPS. But I do love their look, and I didn't want a canopy to achieve the clean look.

I did pick up a used PAR-Wise from a local reefer on a smoking deal. And he is going to 3D print a holder for free too. Super cool guy. So I'll test the PAR once the tank is filled, and I'll post the results. Who knows...I may only be able to have SPS on the very top levels of the tank.
 
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Hey Jimbo, how did the TDS turn out after changing the RO brine restrictor?

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Jimbo327

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It was around 10 TDS after RO. I figured that is normal since RO rejects about 98% of the incoming 350 TDS. After the new DI and it was 0 TDS.
 
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It was around 10 TDS after RO. I figured that is normal since RO rejects about 98% of the incoming 350 TDS. After the new DI and it was 0 TDS.
Sweet sounds like the brine restrictor and breaking in the membrane worked out. DI resin should last a little longer now too.

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Jimbo327

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So strange. I looked at my DI resin (I just replaced this) and it is already turning color and my TDS is creeping up to 5 TDS again. Not sure what is going on.
 
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Check to see if there is a specified flow rate for your DI filter. I am not running as much water as you currently are but my cartridge calls for a maximum flow of 0.25 gpm. The water may be passing through the resin too quickly. Some guys run dual resin filters for this reason as well. Not all resins are created equal either. I have been using the resin shown in the photo and it seems to last a little longer and clean to 0 quite well. I am not running 100gpd through it though. For that amount of flow you may want to look into a carwash dual bed zero water system.

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IMO BRS is just selling rebranded water filters @ top dollar... Easiest way to make a profit, buy bulk for cheap print out stickers sell @ top dollar. I used to use highly purified water for other high demand uses and in those instances the top dogs were hydrologic. Their stuff is pricey but so was mine ;-). We once switched to a lower cost no name filter to try and save some dough, and regreted that choice. Our set up back then was Hydrologic tall boy with carbon block and 5 micron depth filter -> Hydrologic 5 stage 150gpd stealth RO and no DI and we produced 600-1000 gallons per week and only changed our hydro logic tall boys once a month. and the RO membrane every 6. Sorry for the previous mess that got sent from my pocket.
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Jimbo327

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I think I have all of the leaks all sorted out. Had to drain the tank partially to fix them. But it’s almost filled.

Next will be to test the sump can handle all the back flow.

Then slowly add 2 containers of Rea Sea salt (blue bucket) into the filter floss area.
 

Jimbo327

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Took the family to Tong's LFS this afternoon, and it was like kids in a candy store. We were ooh-ing and aah-ing at all the fish and corals. Gives us a lot of inspiration and energy to keep going.

Adding salt 1 cup at a time, but it is surprisingly soothing to watch the mound of salt just melt away. Very ASMR.
B77DC490-8344-4BA0-AAB7-D533918470EE.jpeg
 

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