Lots to update in this build! I've been working slowly, chipping away at my To-Dos while managing work, travel, family, holidays... it's going to get done and soon!
Starting with the light mount. The original idea is detailed in a post above. I was going to hang 4+ Noopsyche lights over the tank to give it an even spread and not break the bank, because I've already got 4 Noopsyche K7 Minis.
Mats: Zyltech 3030 (mm) aluminum extrusion T slots
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Goal: attach directly to the stand:
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(not yet attached)
Then I got to thinking, "that's a lot of bricks". I started shopping for single unit lights like ReefBreeders and Orpheks. Was just getting to the point where I was hopelessly considering buying a new expensive light and suffering the inevitable consequences, when an Orphek Atlantik V4 with Icon upgrade hit the forum! Perfect spread for my 48"x20"x20" tank!
And here it is! Got the T slots all bolted in.
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Added some felt padding to reduce vibration, noise and scratching from contact with the aluminum:
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Light's up! Slides right into the T slot with its button screws!
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Light wasn't working consistently at first (would randomly power off or not power on), so had a bit of work to do first.
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Bit of wire corrosion burning the power supply wires. Turns out easy fix. Cut back wires, compressed air can and some isopropyl alcohol and all clean!
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Houston, we have lift-off!
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Good with lights for now. How about the sump. Sump was all modified in above post. Now for the sump rock and the additional display rock. Fortunately, I have some OLD dried out Fiji and Marshall Islands rocks in the warehouse. This stuff is excellent.
(left is rock for display, right is rock for sump cryptic zone and part for macro zone):
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Display rock side-view. A nice arch!
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And got it cooking!
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Now for the stand. The most challenging aspect of this build. I am reinforcing the stand just for extra safety. To do this, I am using Zyltech 2040 aluminum extrusion to brace the inside of the marine plywood stand. Here is the general idea:
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And the plan is to bolt in T slots to the bottom of the plywood top of the stand to prevent bowing and provide some additional rigidity to avoid rocking side-to-side. Ideally I would have a full perimeter "rectangle" connected by L brackets, but the plumbing hole gets in the way and there is no way to run a long length of T slot on the back through the panels without cutting a hole in one of the sides. Not worth it. So here's the design:
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This would be the view from inside the stand looking up at the bottom side of the top of the stand. The dark brown lines are the plywood side and vertical panels on either side of the ATO (weight bearing).
The idea for attaching the T slots is to drill M5 holes in the top plywood and use a forstner bit to countersink the head of the screws (M5 flanged head screws) and attach them to T nuts in the 2040. There is one 2020 bar next to the ATO panel so it doesn't cover up the wire/tubing pass-though holes. Today I started drilling and just finished the first profile in the front (test run):
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Total of 11 M5 bolts attaching the T slot. It feels very stable. Next will be to attach all of the other profiles and then "seat" them by bolting L brackets to the bottom and screwing the L brackets to the plywood.
Next steps:
1. Finish stand reinforcements
2. Put together the control board and attach Hydros devices
3. Attach electrical (power strips, power supplies, etc.) to stand
4. Move stand and tank to final resting place and get WET!
Speaking of final resting place. I got a super shwanky new desk from a neighboring office that was closing up and donating their furniture. So I redesigned my office.
Before:
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After:
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Now see how long it stays tidy...