Lowest cost and easiest way to eliminate green hair, bubble, turf and slime algae

SantaMonica

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continued:


Bgmac on the scrubber site: "Upset with this Algae Scrubber: So far I have been running a DIY algae scrubber for a little over 3 weeks. When I started, my N was hovering around 15 to 20 and my P was around .25. You see, I have always done a 10 gallon water change every week for my 60 gal display and 20 gal sump. Now, with my algae scrubber, I stopped doing the weekly water changes, N so far has dropped bellow 2 ppm, and P is 0! I expect N to be 0 by the end of the week. I have also doubled the amount I feed the fish. Coraline calcium is starting to pop everywhere along with tube worms, sponges, hitch hiker soft coral, and countless other wild creatures. I am upset with this algae scrubber because I went for over 2 years constantly battling High N and making trips to the local salt water well, trucking buckets of water back and forth. Buying multiple skimmers and wasting hours of time and $ trying to dial them in with no real luck. You see, so far I am upset with this algae scrubber because I didn't set one up earlier. What was I thinking. After going through all of the ups and downs of this salt world hobby. I am truly amazed at how unbelievably great this simple and extremely cheap contraption is working! I am still going to do water changes in the future but think I will wait a few months and just top off with my RO/DI to give myself and my back a deserved break for a while. Thank you to all that posted on how to setup a scrubber. This has been one of the simplest things to do to my tank."

Holidayz on the scrubber site: "Tried the normal way like slimmer, bio-pellets, cheato, gfo, carbon, etc but still same, no purple and blue milli. Now I'm running scrubber alone, and even though my screen wasn't great, I found quite some benefits already. That's why I wanted to have a full green screen so situation probably even better. My blue milli is coming back, not full blue yet. Much more pods. I haven't feed my sun coral for 2 months now and still going good. Good growth on corals, more food from the screen? N always non detectable (salifet) and P ranging from 0 to 0.04 (Hana). Usually above 0 after I clean the screen or move rocks around, and drop back down to 0 after 2 -3 days."

lexxxx208 on the UR site: "I've had my scrubber up and running for 5 weeks now and I can safely say its the best thing since sliced bread lol the skimmer came of last week with no Ill affects and my gha in my dt has droped by half so if any one is in two minds to build and run a algae scrubber I'd say get it done you won't be disappointed"

BeanAnimal on the RC site: "I had a refugium on my system but was suffering very high nitrates and phosphates. Did the nitrate spike when it was removed? NO. I then put an ATS on my system (no other changes) and dropped my nitrate from deadly levels to ZERO and cut my phosphates significantly. Furhtermore, my PH is much more stable and my nuisance algae problem is starting to come under control. Water changes, a 6' tall skimmer and a refugium did not help."

Byron on the scrubber site: "I could not be happier with my ATS! Tank has no measurable N or P, I have been able to reduce LR in the tank, skimmer has gone, no more water changes etc. Feeding 7 - 10 cubes a day. I was cleaning half the screen once a week, but it is growing a lot better cleaning the whole screen every 14days. I have increased the ATS lights from 14 -18hrs per day."

Tomymar on the GK site: "I have a 140 gal, tank with 7 Ryukin. It's outdoors and even with a cover it had a major algae bloom. Could NOT see more than 3 inches. Built a waterfall Algae Scrubber and BOOM, no algae in the tank, I mean NONE. Water is crystal clear. AND, my bio filter was going OK but had Ammonia, like .5. Witht the Algae scrubber, Am 0, Ites 0, Ates 0. Right now I have an Up Flow Algae Scrubber (UAS) in my 30 gal. I used some Rubbermaid containers, a bubble wand, a very small air pump and there you go. This Algae Scrubber stuff works. My Ryukin are in totally clear water, I am amazed but it works."
Ansphire on the NR site: "Never made a waterchange, never ran skimmer, gfo, carbon. Saved a ton of money in salt, ro water, useless chemicals and equipment. Better yet, i spend 5 mins a week cleaning a screen. 10 yrs of reef keeping and my only regreat is not finding the algae scrubber sooner."

Tat2z_21 on the RF site: "The last [scrubber] I built worked almost to good. I noticed that the chaeto in my refugium started dwindling away. I thought if I let it go it would balance out but it out competed my chaeto. It also took out all of my nuisance algae in my tank."

Joshik on the SCR site: "i have one in my biocube 29 and i run an algae turf scrubber and it works great. i have 10 fish in my biocube and do not do water changes. i feed 2x day. i dose sea chem reef fusion to replenish elements. i have various softies, lps and sps that are doing great! i am an algae turf scrubber believer!"

Rexbrown on the SCR site: "The ATS that I have been running has worked out great for my 180 gallon. I have been skimmer free since setting it up. My Nitrates and Phosphates are always 0. It's been a copepod factory and my obese mandarins appreciate it. I harvest 2 to 2.5 cups of algae, every 7 to 10 days or so."

Cole on the CR site: "I have been running a scrubber for month now and it works really well. My phosphate and nitrate are at 0 consistently for the first time in 6 years. My fish and corals like the extra food they are getting as well.So easy to build and effective."

Edmontonnewbie on the CR site: "i doubled my feedings just to test it all out and found for the first time in 3 years i am running 0's in all my tests across the board, i brought a sample to the fish store and they got zeros too"

Pterfloth on the CR site; "I am very, very happy with the results. I have been at it for 3 months now and results continue to improve. Hair algae growth is significantly reduced and gradually receding. More importantly, my SPS growth has returned to former levels, colors are better and polyp extension is better. Colonies that had shown no growth for many months are now sprouting new tips everywhere and visible growth of SPS colonies is quite apparent. Areas damaged by hair algae or cyano encroachment are repairing. All cyano has disappeared. Maintenance is very simple, clean the mesh once every two weeks, and I don't have to dose anything. I took the bio-pellets out two weeks after starting the scrubber. I'm not trying to advocate algae scrubbers. I'm just trying to share what is working for me. I tried the zeo approach and the bio-pellet approach, with RowaPhos, and they did not work for me. Nutrient test results were low, but hair algae was rampant and SPS growth had ground to a halt. I have a lot of fish in my tank, probably too many, and they have grown a lot in the past three years. Loonie-sized fish three years ago are now 8-10" in size. My SPS growth is outstanding and almost every trace of the hair algae I battled for 18 months is gone. I tried this out of desperation and it is the only thing that has worked so far."

Iprayforwaves on the scrubber site: "I have a mini 1x6 horizontal scrubber on a 5 gallon nano lit with 2 red LEDs and the growth on that thing is bright green and thick. Before there was algae all over the glass and rocks. since I put in the scrubber the algae has disappeared."

Kbb0118 on the TCMAS site: "Performace is AWESOME on this design. No water changes. Baseline readings 10/1/2011: Nitrate (Red Sea Pro) 1 ppm, Phosphate (Hanna ULR Phosphorus test) 0.120 ppm. Installed ATS on 10/4/2011. 10/13/2011: Nitrate 0.80 ppm, Phosphate 0.058 ppm. 10/21/2011: Nitrate 0.75 ppm, Phosphate 0.034 ppm. 10/29/2011: Nitrate 0.70 ppm, Phosphate 0.018 ppm <<< YEAH!!! I tested it 3 times with the Ultra Low Range Phosphorus Hanna test to make sure. 11/14/2011: Nitrate 0.25 ppm (Red Sea Pro), Phosphate 0.003 ppm (Hanna Phosphorus ULR reading of 1 ppB phosphorus). The only filtration I have is liverock, sand and this algae turf scrubber. No skimmer, GFO, carbon, pellets, filter socks anymore. Nearly all my DT algae is GONE! All fish who are able to are spawning in this tank! Some of the snails too! That is a huge deal for me. I feed pellets 2x daily and 2 cubes of frozen once a day. I have not done a WC in 2 months. I am monitoring my flame angel to see if her HLLE improves.....that fish's disease prompted this whole ATS thing. Water clarity seems normal to me. I haven't run any carbon since I read it may cause HLLE, so that was a whlie back. The one piece of acro I have is doing really well! I don't have any more cyano, bryopsis, bubble or hair algae in my display tank anymore."

Waucedah_joe on the scrubber site: "I built another [LED scrubber] that was nearly identical but had 45W panels instead of the 50w panels on the original. Not a lot of research just bought the cheapest ones I could find. Anyway, I started the current scrubber up along with my upgrade from a 75g to a 140g display in June of 2010. Except for the initial spike upon start-up my nitrates are zero with the Salifert test, I don't test for phosphates. I've never done a proper water change. I do add fresh salt water to replace what I pull out when siphoning sediment out of the sump but that adds up to no more than 5 gallons every 2-3 months. I see from reading newer threads that this is all old school but I couldn't be happier with the results."

Billym24 on the RDO site: "I have had a reef tank for 5 years and was never able to get my nitrate to 0 until I built a algee truff scrubber, cost about $35 to build and takes about 4 weeks to get to 0 but now I test 0 all the time and ph is never a problem either."
 

SantaMonica

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continued...

AntnioVitor on the MR site: "This algae scrubber is my second attempt. I had it since [6 months ago]! The previous one had lots of sucess (some 2 years ago), still I dropped it, because I thought that a very big skimmer was still better...
That was a mistake! I bought a good top skimmer for 600 gallons aquarium, my tank only has 100 gallon, but it was not better than my scrubber! My previous attempt had a feeding pump to the scrubber, now I only use my return water from the tank to the sump to "feed" the scrubber. that is smarter, less energy used. I only use leds, in the scrubber and tank, but that is another history!"

Ace on the CCR site: "I still swear by the ATS as being the #1 filtration method by far above everything else. The price to performance ratio simply can't be touched by any other form of filtration in my opinion. I think getting the right lighting (660nm red LEDs) was the key.. my ATS is super super super charged to the point I have to clean it every 4 days tops and the screen goes from clean to stuffed in that time and is very heavy. Before I thought skimmers did very little to help a tank, I know what they do, how they work, what they remove... but now I can really see that it is causing more harm than good on my 75G tank. My 55G is doing great, corals that were all on the verge of death in my 75G have made a great comeback in the 55G and no other filtration other than the ATS."

Norfolkcod on the MFUK site: "My Diy effort has been running well since i started it, with a good weight of algae on each weekly scrape. I have no skimmer running with it and my sump is alive with creatures, main tank looks healthy too. I am the first to admit i do very little maintenance to my setup but the 7 day scape and 2 monthly bulb change (salt deposits) it has given me no grief at all. When i have missed a scrape and the screen has clogged it just runs around the overflow and causes no mess. and the cleaning is quick so the return pump stays off for less than 5 mins. I found rescrape with the holesaw when cleaning too, gets the holes clear real easy and leaves a nice rough screen everytime. If people are still toying with the idea then i would say give it a try. In my experience a couple of hours tinkering makes a nice cheap filter."

Chrisp on the IM site: "I read the entire blog on algae turf scubbers from Santa Monica and I have an ATS running under my 150 gallon. I use to struggle to keep my nitrates under 40. I currently no longer check because the readings are always zero."

Fishbrain888 on the scrubber site: "I finally got the courage to test the water for nitrates and phosphates after being unsuccessful for many years with a skimmer and other gimmicks. I can tell you all that the test came out to ZERO Nitrates and ZERO Phosphates and the DKH was a little high at 12. I can't believe it! Thank you for getting me into doing an ATS everyone"

Scubayachts on the scrubber site: "A couple months ago I built and added my first algae scrubber. I had nitrates that where off the charts and high phosphates as well. After running this system with two cfl 23w bulbs, one on each side I now how 0 for both nitrates and phosphates."

Doompie on the scrubber site: "Ever since my tank started, I won't ever ever want to use a skimmer again in my life. Especially after reading what it actually removes, and what benefits you have with the ATS. I really only enjoy the hobby since, never have to worry about anything actually. Just keep the feeding up, and enjoy. Cleaning is done in 15 minutes for me."

Thatgrimguy on the 3R site: "I guess I should update.. The unit is working GREAT now. Tons of hair. Green and growing!! NO3 is untraceable and Po4 is down to .04ppm. I haven't actually done a water change in over 2 months because I have been lazy and my BRS 50ml pump that was pumping water out failed on me... and I haven't really needed to. Tank looks great, corals look great. I'm super sold on this unit!!! It's been amazing! I'm feeding 4 cubes, some pellets, some oyster feast and a sheet of nori every day!! I'm cleaning it every 10 days now with no problems and I pulled a pound or more out last week! Takes about 15 minutes to clean properly and I can do a quick clean in about 5 minutes really. Mine is really easy to access so maintenance is easy."

Reefkeeper2 on the BR site: "I toyed with the idea for quite a while and then I finally went and did it. I am pleasantly surprised with the results. I havn't noticed any difference in evaporation, but my system is automated and very large so I probably wouldn't. What I have noticed is cleaner sand and less algae on the acrylic. The pH is higher at night. I can also feed a lot more. I have even started feeding the corals and nephthea some freeze dried rotifers. So I can say the experiment has been a sucess and I will continue to run the scrubber."

Iggy on the RB site: "This filter allows me to feed 5 cubes daily without nusaince algae. I also stopped rinsing frozen foods. Tank took 3-4 months for acans to adjust. SPS seemed to love system from the start!"

Milkman on the SC site: "OK, I got this going about [2 months ago]. Been letting the screen build about two weeks between cleanings. Tonight I cleaned the screen and was just amazed how much algae this thing creates - pulls from the system. First time in months I wanted anyone to see my tank. I had to move all the corals to the frag tank for awhile due to the algae overtaking everything. Just moved most of the corals back to the display this past weekend. I m going to add one of these to my 200 gal breeder system to keep algae under control and feed pods to the breeding pairs. I have seen no hair algae appear in my three tanks on the system with the ATS since about one month after setup.

More important, I believe my 200 gal system is largely free of algae for the first time in maybe 8 months. The back glass of the display, which had a bed so thick it needed mowing, is completely clean. I have just a small amount around the openings on the four return lines, but that's about it.

Spcunnin on the AR site: "I think you will be pleased when you get it functioning. I was impressed with how fast it removed my nitrates. I'm doing 5 gallon water changes every 3 weeks only because I'm uncomfortable with not. The algae seems to handle whatever you throw at it. If you over feed it just grows faster and has no effect on water column. I found the idea for ATS by searching no more water changes."

Salty on the AFS site: "I have one, and have had great success with it the past 6 months or so. it is my only form of filtration otehr than the live rock."

Damon on the IM site: "I have been completely skimmer less for over a month now, and my ats has brought my nitrates from off the chart above 50ppm and with yesterday's test it has come down to 5 on the high end with color choosing(can't wait for a Hanna to make a nitrate). I am extremely happy with my ats as it is now, but I do believe I'm going to build a second one next to it. I built this size for a small (75-90g heavy bioload), but I'm going to add a second one that will be a more professional build quality now that I have figured out how I want it to run. I still love the fact that I have dropped $25 a month in electricity, haven't done a water change in a month while still dropping nitrates and getting amazing coral growth. The best part is I am making these to utilize my overflow drains, so in essence I adding a more efficient form of filtration without adding any heat or extra electricity. I can't report on long term results as I've only been running an ats since last fall. But from where my tank was to where it is now is enough for me to jump ship, lol."

Kerry on the scrubber site: "I was hard for me to believe that this device worked. It took about a year before I built one and now I wish I knew about this years ago. Who would have thought algae would provide so much success? I even have one on my 150G FW Jack Dempsey tank as well. And yes, its so nice not to have a skimmer anymore!!!!"

Reefkeeper2 on the RC site: "I run a skimmer, biopellets and an ATS. The skimmer and the pellets worked well keeping nitrates at 0, but there was room for improvement with phosphate control. I tried GFO, and lanthanum. My sps do not like the GFO. I got STN often when I changed it out. The lanthanum worked, but was very labor intensive and so unpractical. The ATS did the trick nicely. I have been a reefer for a very long time. I think I have tried every method of nutrient control thought up by anyone. I really enjoy trying out new ideas and trying to improve on old ones. I have to say that this combination has worked the best of all I have tried over the years."

N728NY on the RC site: "Just chiming in to say I really hope this thread keeps going! Lots of good info. I'm still pretty new to keeping a reef tank. I have been running a scrubber with my skimmer for the past three months. Before then I could never get my nitrates below 15, and since I added my scrubber I never been able to detect any nitrates, even after feeding twice as much. I know with my 75 gallon set up, I made my scrubber slightly over sized (sized for 100 gallons) and I dump huge amounts of pellets and frozen shrimp in my tank on top of spot feeding my corals on a regular basis and I still have yet to register any nitrates on my test kit. Being that I'm still new I still haven't built up the courage to unplug the skimmer yet. I may try it once I know for sure my scrubber is fully matured, got plenty of ro water made up and salt ready just in case I need to do an emergency water change lol. I still have a clump of cheato left that I suppose would be good back up if the scrubber couldn't keep up. The cheato doesn't really grow very much right now because of the scrubber. I love these scrubbers, I'm so glad I took the time to read "both sides" of the arguments on them to find out the facts about them."
 

SantaMonica

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continued...

Kentth on the scrubber site: "overall the tank is much healthier, a lot of feather dusters, coming out of the rocks, yellow sponges, other opaque sponges. big thing is no water changes for over 8 months, almost no silt, it has really cut my maintenance"

Langtudatinh01 on the RC site: "i completely redo my 40B with the ATS from beginning, i barely see much algae on my display tank but i now have a mature ATS. i relocated all my fish and add another one without any issue. the dead rocks i use bleach quite a lot of phosphate back into the water, but the ATS has handle the issue like a cham. i do not see much algae on my display. everything is green like grass down at the ATS. i am very happy so far.'

Bicolour on the MFUK site: "quick update, so my ats has been running since [6 weeks ago] and i gotta say all the algea in my tank and on the sand has gone, wow. gotta say it was well worth doing. i dont monitor growth at the moment but this is something i will be doing in the future, my set up was basic costing very little as i wanted to try this before i really looked into the idea. very impressed and can only say if you got space look into it"

Rysher on the RC site: "i have a 6x9 screen, 1 inch is submerged so only 6x8 is really used, i also have a 40b. it has been my only form of filtration ever since i started the tank [months ago], i feed almost 2 cubes a day, only have 2 fishes but u cant see any algae on my DT, almost non existent film algae too, i clean my DT glass maybe once a week."

Packman90 on the RC site: "I have a 72 Gallon bow front and until a couple of months ago I was going to throw my tank away and give up on saltwater tanks all together. I was brand new, took a lot of advice, started my system and watched as it became more and more green, until i found out about scrubbers. I lost all of the coral frags I bought, about $400.00 worth, and just felt that I would never get it. I have it now, and just bought my first new frags in over 8 months. Thanks to all of you scrubbers out there who showed me the way. Here is the tank after the scrubber did it's magic. this took a total of 1 month for it to clear up, and I did not remove any of the algae, it just melted a way. Only problem I have is that i have some sea grass that is melting away as well and cheto in my sump is also slowly dieing."

Aydee on the scrubber site: "I'm going to call this a success. My nitrates had been sitting steady at about 10 or so for over a year. For it to drop to undetectable in 2 weeks.. THAT is impressive. I have got my skimmer running still, but once my ATS is running, I'll turn off the skimmer (not remove.. Yet....) If situation remains excellent as the trend currently is, I'll remove the skimmer. However, I came into ATS thinking "It can't hurt, as I'll keep my skimmer running" and now I'm thinking "WOAH! They're right!".
Obviously, the proof will be in 2 years time, ATS sans skimmer.. But.. So far, the numbers are fantastic."

Robert_Patterso on the RC site: "Best thing I have ever put on any of my tanks in over 25 years of being in the hobby"

Pskelton on the RC site: "I personally have not done a water change in 6 months ever since I implemented my scrubber. long story short my tank was a mess, kid dumped container of food in tank. I got a snow flake eel that dug up my sand bed and I was running a very under powered cheep skimmer. This lead to my nitrates peeking at 160. I did water changes for a while but the nitrate just keep coming back up to 160. The water changes were getting expensive and I was about to give up when I tried the scrubber. Within a few weeks nitrate dropped to 60 and slowly came down from there. As of my test last week I am finally at 0 nitrate and I haven't done a water change in six months. The protean skimmer has been removed and my tank is healthier than ever. I am just waiting for the algae on my rocks to finish dieing off."

Murph on the scrubber site: "my ATS is coming along fine. I think I spent about 30 bucks making it. When I compare that to the thousand or more I have spent on skimmers over the past ten years or so that made little to no difference when it came to nuisance algae in the display I want to pull my hair out. My ATS has out done them all in a matter of a few months."

Spotter on the RC site: "Nitrate Day 1: 5ppm, Week 1: 0ppm, Week 2: 0ppm. P04 Day 1: .035, Week 1: .015, Week 2: .0092 I am liking this very much."

JohnnyB_in_SD on the RC site: "I feed about 6-7 cubes a day on a 100gl tank, and 10-12 cubes two days a week when I do the nems & corals too. N&P have been undetectable since I started using ATS, which is a mickey mouse rubber maid tub version. Since I am always looking for the easiest way to do everything, I will continue cleaning the whole screen once a week. For me, it was a real struggle maintaining water quality with just a fuge: starving my fish, super skimming, massive weekly water changes - just to keep Nitrates near 20ppm and Phosphate under 1.0. That all went away with an ATS, the hobby is much more enjoyable and not a huge chore."

Thedude657 on the scrubber site: "So my screen finally filled out with greenish algae. Water quality is excellent and now I have all sorts of cool things growing on my live rock. Little white sponges are popping up everywhere, some stuff I have no clue what it is yet. Just wanted to say thanks to help me get started."

Chrisfraser05 on the RC site: "I just wanted to jump in and say after bumping into Santamonica on a forum a while back and also watching Lafishguys videos I started a marine tank [8 months ago]. Obviously I started my first tank with a DIY algae scrubber and have NEVER seen either nitrate or phosphate."
 

SantaMonica

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Redneckgearhead on the scrubber site: "Heres the pics of my HA problem. [algea all over]These where taken just before I added my scrubber. I had tried EVERYTHING nothing helped. I paid a small fortune for a skimmer that I was told would surely take care of the problem. The HA laughed and kept on growing. My lights where down to 3 hours a day, my fish where only fed a small amount every two to three days, I was doing 10 percent water changes twice a week. And keep in mind those picks are only about 3 days growth, I would remove about 80 percent of the HA during my water changes. These are pics I took today just before my weekly water change. [almost no algae] I am feeding daily, my fish are now fat and happy. My scrubber is working beautifully! I am so glad I found out about scrubbers. I am still using my skimmer, but I may take it off line as soon as all the HA is gone. From the looks of things that shouldn't be much longer."

Fragglerocks on the RC site: "Ive gotten rid of 95% of all "bad" algae in the DT and my P04 Level is 0.12 checked by Hanna meter. Nitrates - Zero. I feed the equivalent of 2 frozen cubes per day, along with pellets whenever I think about it. up to 2 times per day."

Scrubit on the scrubber site: "have been running a scrubber-only 90gal tank for over a year now with great success. [...] I was ready to buy a big ol skimmer for my new tank build when I came across some of the info SM had posted. That was all it took, and I've never looked back. NEVER had algae in DT, NEVER had readable nitrates/phos after cycle, and have probably changed out maybe 40gal of water since setup. Personally I find running a scrubber almost as fun as the tank itself!"

Psyops on the RC site: "I had a DSB and chaeto fuge. When I added a ATS, the chaeto disappeared. I don't know if the DSB is doing anything. I feed my fish and tank from 1-2 times daily depending on my schedule. The ATS is doing really well, especially when I added a Calcium reactor 3 months ago. I did not believe some of the stuff people were saying on how effective an ATS system could be, but they were mostly correct."

JohnnyBinSD on the RC site: "I finally got around to putting an ATS on my tank 3 weeks ago. Just harvested a pile of algae off it tonight. In those 3 weeks I have doubled the amount of daily food I put in the tank, run the skimmer 6 hours/day instead of 24/7, and removed the lighting from the chaeto in the old fuge. Nitrates & phosphates are undetectable, algae in the display tank is almost nonexistent, fish are fat & happy. An ATS is the cheapest & most effective thing I've ever done to improve water quality. I wish I had built one sooner."

Kcmopar on the MFT site: "Its been about 5 weeks (started the weekend before fathers day) or so and the green hair algae has stopped growing in my 40G. Yeah!!! Its all receding, maybe just a few percent left at the base of a couple rocks that my coral beauty snacks on. Just amazing. Started this 40G salt from Jump with an ATS. IT NEVER CYCLED!!! I have little pods, tiny feather dusters, and other critters thriving like crazy. Coraline already starting to spread across the tank. Nutrients are always zero to just barely detectable on both the 10g and 40g. Also a note on the 40G, I never had to do a water change yet!!! No test results ever got past barely detectable. I have been dabbling with an ATS on a 10 gallon Freshwater as well. Same results so far. I am building a bigger one for my 150G FW in a few weeks."

Reeftanker on the MFUK site: "i have cleaned it about 8/10 times now, about 50-90 grams of algae each time and i have just tsted my tank i have on my test kits; Phosphates = clear that means undetectable levels on my test kit, Nitrates = 1ppm maybe 2ppm, what more do i have to say im am chuffed to bits and over the moon"

Etan on the MFUK site: "Just to share some of my results with my scrubber. I set up my new tank at beginning of Jan(Rio 400). The only filtration I have on the tank is a scrubber and about 50kg of live rock. After the tank had cycled my nitrates peaked at about 25ppm about 2 weeks ago. There were only 2 clowns and 2 chromis in tank and small cuc. Just tested today after all stock and cuc from old tank have been in there for about 1 week and nitrate reading is only 2ppm and not much signs of algee in main tank or on glass. It seems to me the scrubber is doing its job."

Weatherby68ss on the scrubber site: "i have been into this hobby for 3 years now and was using a wet /dry filter for the first year and a half or so untill i found out about algae scrubbers. i have to admit i would not still have an aquarium if not for my ats. its simply to much time, work and $$$ using any other type of filtration. with the ats i can actually sit back and enjoy my tank and keep my fish fat and happy with out worrying about the next water change because i hav'nt done 1 in over a year! :D anyone thats thinking about building 1 all i can say is go for it THEY WORK!!! nuff said"

Mgraf on the RC site: "I have been running a scrubber for about 8 months now, at first I had a skimmer running, macro's, rock rubble, and deep sand bed. Same setup as you almost. I still have the deep sand bed but, eliminated the other stuff over time for the sake of simplicity. I clean the scrubbers algae once a week, do monthly water changes, feed often and alot, and my corals and fish have never been happier or fatter in the year and a half it has been set up. Many may disagree but, for me it is the easiest way to run a salt water reef." Update: "I have been running a sump very similar to this for about two years now. I run with the ATS only, no skimmer. As stated above in the thread, I built the scrubber over the whole section of the deep sand bed and refuge. It has been working great! I originally built the scrubber one sided and sloped as well but, eventually rebuilt the sump to have the scrubber lit on both sides. I only harvest one side at a time to keep lots of growth going on the screen at all times. It worked really well one sided, but works even better two sided!"

Jukka on the RC site: "I used to have various carbon sources + ATB Supersize skimmer as filtration for my 400 gal reef. I never succeeded to outcompete nutrient problems with those, no matter how much carbon I added. I also tried the pellet version. Since building a large scrubber with lots of light, all problems are gone. But I didn't take the skimmer out of the system and didn't stop carbon dosing, and don't intend to. I just reduced carbon amount to about 1/10 of the original. I like the effects carbon does for fungi, and other stuff like that, growth. Though other reason for keeping skimmer online is the amount I paid for the supersize ATB.
 
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I briefly skimmed the exahustive reviews you provide, but saw nothing specific about dinoflaggelates. This is the specific reason I am considering buying your product. Do you have any reviews specifcly addressing dinoflagellates?
 

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This is probably because dino's are just not a problem with scrubbers. Dino's go away first, so they are never a challenge. The challenge is usually focused on cyano, bubbles, or maybe bryopsis.
 
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What I am looking for is someone saying they had a Dino problem and the scrubber solved it. Do you have any testimonials like that? There are no good remedies that I can find for dino. If your product solves this and is documentable that would be great. Please provide specific documentation or testimonials regarding dinoflagellate control or eradication.
 

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Nutrient Export

What do all algae (and cyano too) need to survive? Nutrients. What are nutrients? Ammonia/ammonium, nitrite, nitrate, phosphate and urea are the major ones. Which ones cause most of the algae in your tank? These same ones. Why can't you just remove these nutrients and eliminate all the algae in your tank? Because these nutrients are the result of the animals you keep.

So how do your animals "make" these nutrients? Well a large part the nutrients come from pee (urea). Pee is very high in urea and ammonia, and these are a favorite food of algae and some bacteria. This is why your glass will always need cleaning; because the pee hits the glass before anything else, and algae on the glass consume the ammonia and urea immediately (using photosynthesis) and grow more. In the ocean and lakes, phytoplankton consume the ammonia and urea in open water, and seaweed consume it in shallow areas, but in a tank you don't have enough space or water volume for this, and, your other filters or animals often remove or kill the phytoplankton or seaweed anyway. So, the nutrients stay in your tank.

Then the ammonia/ammonium hits your rocks, and the periphyton on the rocks consumes more ammonia and urea. Periphyton is both algae and animals, and is the reason your rocks change color after a few weeks from when they were new. Then the ammonia goes inside the rock, or hits your sand, and bacteria there convert it into nitrite and nitrate. However, the nutrients are still in your tank.

Also let's not forget phosphate, which comes from solid organic food particles. When these particles are eaten by microbes and clean up crews, the organic phosphorus in them is converted into phosphate. However, the nutrients are still in your tank.

So whenever you have algae "problems", you simply have not exported enough nutrients compared to how much you have been feeding (note: live rock can absorb phosphate for up to a year, making it seem like there was never a problem. Then, there is a problem).

So just increase your nutrient exports. You could also reduce feeding, and this has the same effect, but it's certainly not fun when you want to feed your animals :)
 

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What is Periphyton?

Periphyton is what turns your rocks different colors. You know... the white rocks you started with in SW, or the grey rocks (or brown wood) you started with in FW. After several months or years, the rocks become a variety of different colors and textures. Why? Because the periphyton that has grown on it is a mix of different living things, of different colors, and thicknesses. And the important part is: It is LIVING.

That's right: The colored stuff that has coated your rocks is all living organisms. Sponges, microbes, algae, cyano, biofilms, and of course coralline. After all, "peri" means "around the outside", and "phyto" means "plant". Ever slipped in a slippery puddle? That's probably periphyton that made it slippery. It's a very thin coating on the rocks, sometimes paper thin.

There is a lot of photosynthetic organisms in periphyton, and this of course means that they need light; but they need nutrients too (ammonia, nitrate, phosphate). And as you might figure, they will be on the lighted portions of the rocks. And they will grow to intercept food particles in the water, based on the water flow. Just think about how sponges orient their holes for water flow; the micro sponges in periphyton do it too but on a tiny scale.

What about under the rocks, in the dark areas? Well these periphyton don't get light, so they are primarily filter feeders. So they REALLY grow and position themselves to be able to intercept food particles. And they don't really need to fight off algae, because algae does not grow in the dark, so they have no need for anti-algae tactics like plants in illuminated areas have.

Reef studies have shown that at certain depths, more of the filtering of the water comes from periphyton and benthic algae than comes from the phytoplankton which filters the deeper water. And in streams, almost all the filtering is done by periphyton. So, what you have on rocks that are "mature" or "established" is a well-developed layer of periphyton; and all the things that comes from it.

This is why mandarin fish can eat directly off the rocks of an "established" tank (tons of pods grow in the periphyton), but not on the rocks of a new tank. Or why some animals can lay their eggs on established rocks, but not new ones. Or why established tanks seem to "yo-yo" less than new ones. Even tangs can eat periphyton directly when it's thick enough. Yes periphyton can also develop on the sand, but since the sand is moved around so much, the periphyton does not get visible like it does on rocks. So thick periphyton on established rocks is your friend. And totally natural too. Keep in mind though I'm not referring to nuisance algae on rocks; I'm only referring to the very-thin layer of coloring that coats the rocks.

But what happens when you "scrape the stuff off your rocks"? Well you remove some of the periphyton, which means you remove some of your natural filter and food producer. What if you take the rocks out and scrub them? Well now you not only remove more of your natural filter and food producer, but the air is going to kill even more of the microscopic sponges in it. And what if you bleach the rocks? Well, goodbye all filtering and food producing for another year. It's an instant reduction of the natural filtering that the periphyton was providing.

However, what if you just re-arrange the rocks? Well, some of the periphyton that was in the light, now will be in the dark; so this part will die. And some of the periphyton that was in the dark will now be in the light, so it will not be able to out-compete photosynthetic growth and thus will be covered and die too. And even if the light stays the same, the direction and amount of water flow (and food particles) will change; sponges that were oriented to get food particles from one direction will now starve. So since the light and food supply is cut off, the filtering that the periphyton was providing stops almost immediately, due only to the re-arranging of the rocks.

Starvation takes a little longer. The periphyton organisms won't die immediately, since they have some energy saved up; but instead, they will wither away over several weeks. So on top of the instant reduction in filtering that you get by just moving the rocks, you get a somewhat stretched-out period of nutrients going back into the water. And after all this, it takes another long period of time for the periphyton to build up to the levels it was at before: 1 to 2 years. Even changing the direction of a powerhead will affect the food particle supply in the area it used to be pointed at.

So a good idea is to try to keep everything the same. Pick your lighting, flow, layout, and try to never move or change anything. It's a different way of thinking, but you should have a stronger natural filter and food producer because of it.
 

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Shade cloth:

All new scrubbers which use white growth surfaces should have a black cloth placed over some of the LEDs for the first week or two. Because the all-white interior reflects so much light, when it is new the light levels are way above the highest amount that can grow anything. Once growth starts, the white surfaces get covered with growth and the total light levels drop, and the cloth can be removed. Any cloth, stocking, or t-shirt can work; just don't melt the cloth with hot LEDs :)

This covering of the lights can be done by anyone, on any scrubber, even waterfalls. Waterfalls use plastic canvas which has more holes than material, and they are not in white compartments, so the light levels when new are not that high. But it still might help if a new screen stays completely empty or had bald spots.

The reason for a white colors, of course, is too allow more light to reach the base of the growth that does the attaching to the surfaces. As the growth gets thicker, the bottom layers will almost be in darkness, so the white surface doubles the light there by reflecting instead of absorbing the light.

Put the shade cloth about 2/3 or 3/4 over the lights; this way you can see which part grows better: the covered, or uncovered.
 
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how is he dissipating heat built-up on the led side? I know his using arctic paste to adhesive led's but that tape will not help dissipating the heat build up.
 
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