my blue tangs have, pimples?
- Thread starter Pancho
- Start date
ICH only host on FISH, not corals etc, IF your going to be upgrading and adding stuff over to the new tank, i would only move ur LR & corals over..get new LS, wash all filter socks/sponges...If ur wanna be on the safe side leave ur new system empty of fish for 8 weeks, no less...but as mentioned before, thats Very difficult...
i dont think its a good idea to build a new system while a fish has ick, that stress wont be good IMO, i leave my system alone with one of mine has ich, to hands in tank, no mess with powerheads etc... (except when abso have too)...GL again
Not saying it can host rock or coral, saying in its free swimming stage it can "hang out". Watcha......
Marine Ich (cryptocaryon irritans) - the real scoop
Cryptocaryon irritans (Marine Ich)
So what about Marine Ich (cyrptocaryon irritans)?
The life cycle of this parasite is interesting and is important to understand when evaluating a treatment. The stage where the parasite is attached to a fish is called a trophont. The trophont will spend three to seven days (depending on temperature) feeding on the fish and that is what you see symptomatically when you see "salt sprinkled on the fish". After that, the trophont leaves the fish and becomes what is called a protomont. This protomont travels to the substrate and begins to crawl around for usually two to eight hours, but it could go for as long as eighteen hours after it leaves it's fish host. Once the protomont attaches to a surface, it begins to encyst and is now called a tomont. Division inside the cyst into hundreds of daughter parasites, called tomites, begins shortly thereafter. This noninfectious stage can last anywhere from three to twenty-eight days. During this extended period, the parasite cyst is lying in wait for a host. After this period, the tomites hatch and begin swimming around, looking for a fish host. At this point, they are called theronts, and they must find a host within twenty-four hours or die. They prefer to seek out the skin and gill tissue, then transform into trophonts, and begin the process all over again. What this means is that when your tank is infected, you can actually see symptoms during a very small part of the life cycle, and it why your tank is infected even though your fish are resistant. It will also explain why symptoms come and go.
Many hobbyists are fooled into believing they have cured their fish of the parasites, only to find Ich present again on fish a few weeks later; a reason why following through with a full treatment protocol is so important. Don't make this mistake and be lulled into a false sense of security. The parasites may be in a stage where they are merely regrouping and multiplying for their "next offensive." In the wild, this sort of massive reproductive phase ensures that a few will find a suitable host to continue on the cycle. In the close confines of our aquariums, though, it means comparatively massive infection rates.
This disease is usually associated with several environmental triggers. Changes in water temperature, exposure to high levels of ammonia, nitrite, or nitrate, low pH levels, low dissolved oxygen often associated with overcrowding, are all factors contributing to the onset of the disease. You could lump all of these in a general category of "stress", but it is more appropriate to think of all of these as "unnatural conditions". In fact, Cryptocaryon irritans is rare in the wild even more unlikely to be lethal. Ich is truly a disease that exploits the conditions of captivity to reproduce and easily find suitable hosts.
By the way, trophonts are under the skin so cleaner wrasses and cleaner shrimp have no real effect on reducing this parasite.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Marine Ich (cryptocaryon irritans) - the real scoop
Cryptocaryon irritans (Marine Ich)
So what about Marine Ich (cyrptocaryon irritans)?
The life cycle of this parasite is interesting and is important to understand when evaluating a treatment. The stage where the parasite is attached to a fish is called a trophont. The trophont will spend three to seven days (depending on temperature) feeding on the fish and that is what you see symptomatically when you see "salt sprinkled on the fish". After that, the trophont leaves the fish and becomes what is called a protomont. This protomont travels to the substrate and begins to crawl around for usually two to eight hours, but it could go for as long as eighteen hours after it leaves it's fish host. Once the protomont attaches to a surface, it begins to encyst and is now called a tomont. Division inside the cyst into hundreds of daughter parasites, called tomites, begins shortly thereafter. This noninfectious stage can last anywhere from three to twenty-eight days. During this extended period, the parasite cyst is lying in wait for a host. After this period, the tomites hatch and begin swimming around, looking for a fish host. At this point, they are called theronts, and they must find a host within twenty-four hours or die. They prefer to seek out the skin and gill tissue, then transform into trophonts, and begin the process all over again. What this means is that when your tank is infected, you can actually see symptoms during a very small part of the life cycle, and it why your tank is infected even though your fish are resistant. It will also explain why symptoms come and go.
Many hobbyists are fooled into believing they have cured their fish of the parasites, only to find Ich present again on fish a few weeks later; a reason why following through with a full treatment protocol is so important. Don't make this mistake and be lulled into a false sense of security. The parasites may be in a stage where they are merely regrouping and multiplying for their "next offensive." In the wild, this sort of massive reproductive phase ensures that a few will find a suitable host to continue on the cycle. In the close confines of our aquariums, though, it means comparatively massive infection rates.
This disease is usually associated with several environmental triggers. Changes in water temperature, exposure to high levels of ammonia, nitrite, or nitrate, low pH levels, low dissolved oxygen often associated with overcrowding, are all factors contributing to the onset of the disease. You could lump all of these in a general category of "stress", but it is more appropriate to think of all of these as "unnatural conditions". In fact, Cryptocaryon irritans is rare in the wild even more unlikely to be lethal. Ich is truly a disease that exploits the conditions of captivity to reproduce and easily find suitable hosts.
By the way, trophonts are under the skin so cleaner wrasses and cleaner shrimp have no real effect on reducing this parasite.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
My current tank initially had ich and I never went fishless. I just fed really well and it went away... I did lose a couple of fish initially though.
I know you have just a temporary tank for all those tangs but I'm sure in such a small tank they are really stressed out which is the main reason I feel ich becomes evident.
Pull them, QT with copper, or just let it ride, feed really well, and hope it gets better. QT might be good timing since you are setting up a new reef anyways.
Good luck.
I know you have just a temporary tank for all those tangs but I'm sure in such a small tank they are really stressed out which is the main reason I feel ich becomes evident.
Pull them, QT with copper, or just let it ride, feed really well, and hope it gets better. QT might be good timing since you are setting up a new reef anyways.
Good luck.
OK SO YOU GUYS WILL SAY ITS GOING TO COME BACK>>>> but for now its almost all gone. I started feeding my fish with garlic soaked food(actually even some little pieces of garlic in there) and it seems that it worked miracles. fish seem real healthy and active. Based on the info I got from this thread, the virus is probably just asleep. so HERE IS THE DEAL, I GOT MY 70GAL GLASS TANK YESTERDAY. I was going for a 120+ however all I found within my budget was acrylic. I believe acrylic is not good for me as I hate scratches and I don't want to have to deal with that part of acrylic. so now I need to build this 70 gal fast. I need to drill the back, get a good size sump and get it going so it can cycle. once that's going my fish will spend some more time in the current tank before transfer. (hoping to kill the disease for sure) I have high hopes so we will see.
