Need some help with algae issue…

jackslao

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#1
Hi all!

Want to see if anyone can help me with this problem…

recently I saw a bunch of algae grew on my coral and covered up a good part of it… I can’t really ID what kind of algae it is or know how to remove them… need some help. I really don’t want my corals to die :/

Any help will be great!
IMG_8789.jpeg
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drexel

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#4
What’s your source water? Do you make your own RO? I ask because it looks like poor water quality to me, high silicates and maybe other contaminants? The corals don’t look happy.


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JojosReef

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#5
Need some details on your tank to help.

How old is the tank?
What are nitrates at?
What are phosphates at?
Rough overview of inhabitants (fish, corals, cleanup crew)?
Feeding regimen?
What kind of filtration (filter socks, filter floss, fleece roller, skimmer, carbon, GFO/Phosguard, macroalgae fuge, algae scrubber, UV, etc.)?

Could be diatoms as stated above, but could also be start of dinos.
 
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#6
You have 3 different types of algae in your pictures.

Your best bet is going to be to get something that eats algae. Even with perfect water parameters you will grow algae. Algae is only removed by being consumed IME. Even if you get your water parameters perfect, it will still grow given the chance.

I like the company Reefcleaners.org I would suggest getting quite a few animals to help you out. If you have less than one member of clean up crew per gallon, you really will need to add a lot. Whatever you decide to go with, maybe a mix of emerald crabs, peppermint shrimp, trochus snails, and naussarius snails, I would also recommend getting the often skipped over dwarf planaxis snails. They are very small and will get under your rocks and in the tinest of crevices. It is not overkill to put 50 dwarf planaxis snails in a 50g, and still have a mix of 50 other CUC animals.

For the rest, reducing waste and excess nutrients by using RODI, feeding smaller amounts more often then larger feedings, dosing phyto plankton, and boosting your micro fauna (pods and bacteria) are going to be what help you the most.

If you have the ability to add a refugium, it will give you a lot of lattitude.

Other things that are often overlooked are the age of the bulbs if you are running T5, MH, or PC. LED not so much. Also keeping your pH above 8.3 does help with algae growth and nutrient consumption. Changing filter socks daily until it is under control will help as well.


Good Luck!
 

jessesoto33

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#7
Need some details on your tank to help.

How old is the tank?
What are nitrates at?
What are phosphates at?
Rough overview of inhabitants (fish, corals, cleanup crew)?
Feeding regimen?
What kind of filtration (filter socks, filter floss, fleece roller, skimmer, carbon, GFO/Phosguard, macroalgae fuge, algae scrubber, UV, etc.)?

Could be diatoms as stated above, but could also be start of dinos.
This would help immensely
Also Turbo Snails would help


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jackslao

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#8
Hi everyone, that's for all the tips and support.

Sorry I ghosted everyone for few months... Had to prepare for a big exam so didn't get around to do stuff with the tank...

So... since last time, most of my SPS die... algae problem went away after I introduced more clean up crew though.

Some corals are thriving while others are either dead or on their way... here's a list:
Thriving:
Mushrooms
most zoas

Dead:
most of my SPS (birdnests, monti, anacropora)
leptos

Dying:
Acans
hammers (they're not opening up)
some monti are coming back, as well as some slimer and anacropora

I tested the water today and here's the result:
kH 7.8
Ca 510
Mg 1400
pH 7.9-8.0

I know my Ca and Mg are high, but not sure how to lower them while keep up with kH...

Any thoughts?
 

five.five-six

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#9

Pygo

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#10
Hi everyone, that's for all the tips and support.

Sorry I ghosted everyone for few months... Had to prepare for a big exam so didn't get around to do stuff with the tank...

So... since last time, most of my SPS die... algae problem went away after I introduced more clean up crew though.

Some corals are thriving while others are either dead or on their way... here's a list:
Thriving:
Mushrooms
most zoas

Dead:
most of my SPS (birdnests, monti, anacropora)
leptos

Dying:
Acans
hammers (they're not opening up)
some monti are coming back, as well as some slimer and anacropora

I tested the water today and here's the result:
kH 7.8
Ca 510
Mg 1400
pH 7.9-8.0

I know my Ca and Mg are high, but not sure how to lower them while keep up with kH...

Any thoughts?
Id guess nutrients are the issue now, other parameters seem fine. What are your nitrate and phosphate?
 

jackslao

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#11
I keep mg >1500, not a problem, Ca is high but more importantly alk is on the edge of low.

Do an icp test. Checks for a wide range of contaminants
https://www.marineandreef.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=RFM45872

There are a lot of ways to raise alk, baked baking soda is cheep and easy.

I’ve been using this calculator for 20 years

https://reef.diesyst.com/chemcalc/chemcalc.html
Is it possible to raise kh without raising Ca? I tried seamchem marine buffer and brs soda ash, but both raised Ca and kH.

Id guess nutrients are the issue now, other parameters seem fine. What are your nitrate and phosphate?
Both levels are okay. I think phosphate might be a little off at 0.1 and nitrate is pretty much at 0-10 mg/l.
I keep my skimmer on all times. Last time when I change my skimmer setting I got an algae bloom…
 
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#12
Is it possible to raise kh without raising Ca? I tried seamchem marine buffer and brs soda ash, but both raised Ca and kH.



Both levels are okay. I think phosphate might be a little off at 0.1 and nitrate is pretty much at 0-10 mg/l.
I keep my skimmer on all times. Last time when I change my skimmer setting I got an algae bloom…
Marine buffer and soda ash won’t raise calcium. Any perceived change in calcium is just from the amount of error in the test kit, which one are you using? Some are more specific than others, but you want to observe big trends and not pinpoint exact numbers
 

jackslao

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#13
Marine buffer and soda ash won’t raise calcium. Any perceived change in calcium is just from the amount of error in the test kit, which one are you using? Some are more specific than others, but you want to observe big trends and not pinpoint exact numbers
I am using Red Sea Ca Kit (not pro version). I’ve been getting values above 480 every time I use the kit…
 

five.five-six

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#14
I am using Red Sea Ca Kit (not pro version). I’ve been getting values above 480 every time I use the kit…
What test kit are you using?

I’d do an ICP test to get your baseline.

regular arm and hammer baking soda, spread it on a cookie sheet and bake it at 250? For like 20 minutes, store it in an airtight container and dose as prescribed in the calculator link I posted. It won‘t raise calcium but it is quite accurate for adjusting DKH
 

jackslao

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#16
Red Sea test kit? Those are legit. As long as it hasn’t been contaminated or expired.
Marine buffer and soda ash won’t raise calcium. Any perceived change in calcium is just from the amount of error in the test kit, which one are you using? Some are more specific than others, but you want to observe big trends and not pinpoint exact numbers
Assuming if the test kit is correct (I got this brand new, and every time I test it's been high), is there a way for me to lower Ca without doing a large volume water change?
 
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#17
Assuming if the test kit is correct (I got this brand new, and every time I test it's been high), is there a way for me to lower Ca without doing a large volume water change?
So, I just looked into marine buffer a bit more and I was mistaken - it does say that it includes calcium, I had confused it with reef buffer. Stick with the soda ash as it won't increase your Ca levels. Even when you're ready to start dosing calcium again you'll want to stay away from the marine buffer as it contains borate salts which are not consumed by anything in our reef tanks and will accumulate. Also, I don't believe SeaChem has any actual information on how much Ca is in their products.

Best way is to just wait for corals or coralline algae to consume it. Keep in mind that doing a large water change will only reduce your Ca levels if your salt mix has levels lower than your display tank. What salt do you use?

What is your salinity and what do you use to measure it? Salinity is often overlooked but it is the basis for all of the minerals in your water.

Also keep in mind that you're not using the "pro" version of the test kit, so you're looking at an even wider range of values (15-30ppm vs 5ppm). Make sure reagents are not expired as well.
 

five.five-six

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#18
Assuming if the test kit is correct (I got this brand new, and every time I test it's been high), is there a way for me to lower Ca without doing a large volume water change?
Biological consumption. There are ways to condensate it from the water but I wouldn’t. You aren’t in any kind of danger zone. Assuming you are shooting for 420, you are less than 20% over. i wouldn’t go any higher but just let it fall naturally.
 
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#19
That looks like it could be Dino’s but the only way to know for sure is to put a sample under the microscope. You can get a cheap one on Amazon for around 75.00. Cheaper than almost all other equipment for our tank and it’s a must have IMO.


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jackslao

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#20
So, I just looked into marine buffer a bit more and I was mistaken - it does say that it includes calcium, I had confused it with reef buffer. Stick with the soda ash as it won't increase your Ca levels. Even when you're ready to start dosing calcium again you'll want to stay away from the marine buffer as it contains borate salts which are not consumed by anything in our reef tanks and will accumulate. Also, I don't believe SeaChem has any actual information on how much Ca is in their products.

Best way is to just wait for corals or coralline algae to consume it. Keep in mind that doing a large water change will only reduce your Ca levels if your salt mix has levels lower than your display tank. What salt do you use?

What is your salinity and what do you use to measure it? Salinity is often overlooked but it is the basis for all of the minerals in your water.

Also keep in mind that you're not using the "pro" version of the test kit, so you're looking at an even wider range of values (15-30ppm vs 5ppm). Make sure reagents are not expired as well.
I am using Red Sea Coral Pro Salt. For Salinity, I have two refractometer and I use them to cross reference the salinity... Since it's been so hot these days with the evaporation, that might be an issue (I top it off every night though).

Biological consumption. There are ways to condensate it from the water but I wouldn’t. You aren’t in any kind of danger zone. Assuming you are shooting for 420, you are less than 20% over. i wouldn’t go any higher but just let it fall naturally.
I think I will try the soda ash path for now and see if I can raise my kH. Doesn't look like the corals and coralline algae is consuming much of the calcium though. I will try to get kH a little higher and go from there.

Will report in about a week.
 
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