Plumbing help

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#2
If you run external you will put less heat in your tank and have more room for adding a reactor if you need to in the future?
 
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#3
I don't have to worry about heat as the tank always runs cold. Are there any easy maintenance reactors the I can put outside the sump? I have the brs ones that seem to work very well.

I'm just worried about the pump leaking.

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#4
Its more of a piece of mind sort of thing if you run it internally. Also, if something happens to the pump it will be easier to remove from sump. However, keep in mind this is just my opinion.
 
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#6
You can plumb the pump, reactors into a shallow tube/container in the event of a leak atleast it will contained. If heat will not be an issue, why not run it internally and manifold out to reactors inside a tube/container in the event of a leak.

For ease of maintenance (cleaning, media exchange, etc), you can always convert the inlet / outlet of ech reactors to push connector or add a union for easy disconnet.
 
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#7
sounds to me that you already made your mind, and don't need help...
Trust me, I need lots of help.

My current setup is internal that Tees off to a reactor. I've never had any issues with it.


But there's this hole in the side of the new sump. So I either use it or cap it off.
 
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#8
My suggestion is to use a bulkhead fitting and a plug to seal off the hole. Then run the pump internally. You can always run a seperate container as a fuge later. The potential for leaks and water damage is just too great, IMO. It would be different with a concrete floor and a floor drain. My float will stick open on my RO holding tank every once in a while. It's in the garage and the water can just run down the driveway and into the storm drain until I catch it. No harm done.
 
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#9
Any tips on this? I have a gate valve on 2 drains and then I'll use the 3rd as emergency. I don't know where I should put unions or if I should try to use 45 elbows instead of 90

 
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#10
since its a drain line, 45's or 90's is not going to matter. its still going to drain, especially the size of your pipes. This is just me, i would just use (1) gate on your main, leave the other wide open. Trying to dial in (2) valve is going to be a PITA

for the union, i would put as close to the BH and sock end as possible
 
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#11
since its a drain line, 45's or 90's is not going to matter. its still going to drain, especially the size of your pipes. This is just me, i would just use (1) gate on your main, leave the other wide open. Trying to dial in (2) valve is going to be a PITA

for the union, i would put as close to the BH and sock end as possible
I was planning on running one drain full siphon then the other a trickle. Should be the quietest that way right? I wasnt sure how efficiently the drains would purge air on restarts.
 
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#12
Any tips on this? I have a gate valve on 2 drains and then I'll use the 3rd as emergency. I don't know where I should put unions or if I should try to use 45 elbows instead of 90

I would be a little concerned with that long turn to the sump. From what I was told, you dont want any restrictions or anything that can impede flow or pressure on the full siphon. I would also be concerned with the weight of those pipes going that far unsupported. Anyway you can angle those pipes so they are directed closer to the input of the sump? I used flex PVC for my set-up and it was a breeze.

Also, put the unions where you can reach them if you have to move or break down the tank. Ideally, so you can take the tank off the stand and the plumbing wont get in the way.
 
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#13
Luckily the tank is right in front of a window. So I can always open the window and reach through for more access. I'll try to figure out a way of supporting the pipes better.
 
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#14
I was planning on running one drain full siphon then the other a trickle. Should be the quietest that way right? I wasnt sure how efficiently the drains would purge air on restarts.
Well both of your drain will be a full siphon. As for the putting of the air, that is going to depend on your stand pipe. Since you have an external overflow, you are going to be limited on the height of your stand pipe. If your sump can support the excess water from the overflow, I would do without a stand pipe. 2 advantages with this route. 1) you would not have worry bout air purging issue. 2) you would always have a clean detritus free overflow.

As [MENTION=271]pirate2876[/MENTION], mentioned supporting those pipe is highly recommended
 
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#15
So the tank also has a bulkhead pretty low in the tank. The previous owner used this to drain water out of the tank for water changes. Any concern with water sitting in the pipes with little flow?

 

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