Ryans 180 Craigslist Special Build Thread

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#1
Hello, I'm still pretty new here, but I'm upgrading tanks, and thought I'd do a build thread on it.
My current/previous tank is a 100 Gallon Cube I posted it in a welcome mat thread here: http://www.socalireefs.com/forums/showthread.php?34785-Hi!-My-name-is-Ryan!&p=360972#post360972
In the last month I came across a 180 gallon 6x2x2 acrylic tank on craigslist for a good price and had to pick it up. I was surprised at how nice it was when I saw it considering most tanks i've come across on craigslist are horrible. It only had one significant scratch (which i buffed out) and pretty much nothing else wrong with it. It has 1/2" acrylic sides and bottom with a 5/8" top. It also has a black back and nice big openings on top.

_MG_6631.jpg

The stand and hood are not furniture grade, but nice none the less. The bottom was just a piece of 3/4" ply which the 2x4" uprights butted directly into it. I was afraid of weight distribution because the house has a raised floor, so I cut 3 1/2" off the bottom of all the legs, than added 2x4" horizontally all along the bottom to help spread the weight. I than added the piece of plywood in the back because there was no other type of cross bracing along that side, and then painted the inside of the stand with killz.

While I am reusing most of my equipment from my old tank, I decided to go with a bigger sump. Both to add more equipment later, and I needed the greater volume for flow back when the pumps shut off. I found a 55 gallon frag tank, dimensions 48"x18"x13.5" on craigslist for $50.

_MG_6632.jpg

$40 more for glass, acrylic, and silicone, and I have a sump. The water will enter in the far left with the chamber designed to keep the pipe under water at all times as I am going to use a herbie style overflow, then it will dump onto the filter sock plate, then into the protein skimmer/reactor/whatever chamber, through the bubble trap, and into the return chamber. The tank will contain around 30 gallons at all times, with 10 of that being the return chamber for evaporation and an extra 25 empty for backflow, leaks, etc.

The tank does have dual overflows, each with holes for bulkheads to allow a 1" and a 1 1/2" pipe. In order to use the Herbie method on dual overflow tanks i've seen people modify dual overflow tanks with pipes between the overflows, or coast to coast addons to keep the water level equal in each chamber, but I did not want to modify such a perfect tank. Instead I will use the 1" pipes as overflows and then plumb them together underneath the tank, with a gate valve to control the flow. One of the 1 1/2" pipes will be left open as an emergency overflow, and the other will be used as the return and will be teed up above the tank to 4 3/4" loc lines.

Other equipment coming from the last tank will be a reef octopus XS200, a gen-x PCX40 return pump, and a vortech MP40 (which I'll defintely be looking to add a second later). Lighting will be a single 400 watt MH on one end of the tank until I can get some LEDs up. I simply wont put any coral in the other side of the tank until I get more lights.

That's about where I'm at now, next step is to start plumbing. Any suggestions, questions, etc?
 
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#2
Tank transferred

So last week I finished plumbing and this last weekend I did the transfer. Here's how it looks like now.

This the GenX PCX40 return pump, plumbed with unions and valves, all 1 1/2" plumbing with ultra flex pvc to stop vibration transfer to the sump and tank.


Right side of the sump

The flex comes up from the pump, and before going up through the bulkhead, tees off to 4 valves to feed the chiller, and any reactors I add. Here also is my ATO.
The smaller bulkhead is one of the returns. It goes to the left to meet up with the other return, but also splits off to a valve for a future refugium, and another valve to be used as a drain for water changes.

Left side of sump

The 1" pipe coming from the right is from the right side return, which joins the left side, goes through the gate valve, and down into the sump.
The larger 1 1/2" pipe is an emergency overflow, and currently has no water going through it. The vinyl tube is a return from my chiller. The overflows are configured as a herbie, and the gate valve is about half closed on the 1" return and is handling about 900 gph. Its adjusted so that the water level sits about 3" above the returns, 1" below the emergency, and has no whirlpools or any kind of air being drawn in. It is silent, which is pretty cool.
All the returns go into their own chamber which than overflows over the top onto the filter socks, which makes it easy to pull them out without having to move pipes, or shut off the return. In the filtration section there are zero microbubbles. None from the return, and none from the skimmer.

Close up of the return section.


Returns and lighting above the tank

The returns feed through bulheads in the top which turn into locline inside the tank.

whole tank shot


Next steps are:
-cook up some old dried out rock I have to fill out the rest of the landscape
-Purchase new lighting (as obviously the tank is only half lit) I'm looking at going with two of the 27" Maxspect Razors. I'm going for a little lower lighting level over all and the high efficiency to save on energy and lower the heat produced (as this tank is in a small room). I also love the built in controllers that don't require a computer or anything external to operate. This one MH consumes around 425-450 watts, and two of the razors would consume 320 watts.
-Overall reduce power needs, so probably switch out the genx (130 watts) with an eheim 1262 (80 watts). The house has old wiring and the tank share it's circuit with a lot of things in the house, and it trips every once in a while (when a toaster or a vacuum gets turned on). It's a rental so running new circuits seems to be out of the question.
-Fix microbubbles. There is a fairly large amount of microbubbles in the tank, which is weird, because there are none in the sump. I'm guessing this means there is a leak between the sump and the return pump that is sucking in air? Any tips on how to test this short of ripping apart the plumbing and redoing it?
 

pgr11

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#3
Very nice job. The tripping circuit would really worry me. I would fix that asap. Only other suggestion would be that the metal straps could be replaced with the plastic ones. That way you won't have to look at rust later on. All in all nice build so far. Plumbing is clean
 
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Yeah, me too. I need to root around and see if there are any nearby outlets on a different circuit. The house is wired crazy, there are only two circuits for outlets, and 3/4 of the outlets are on one. Three bedrooms, the dining room, and half the kitchen are all the same.
Do you have a source for a plastic version of what I'm using? Do they make plastic plumbers tape?

thanks

Ryan
 

pgr11

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Yeah home depot or Lowes both sell it. Its in the same place as the metal ones just like one shelf down or up
 
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#6
Picked up a DJ powerstation today. Should have done this on my old tank.


Picked these up from home depot, perfect for mounting these flush.
 
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#8
Looking good. One question though. What happens when you turn off your return pump? It doesn't look like your sump has enough available volume to hold the overflow water (let alone if you get back-siphon from your lockline). Look forward to seeing more updates!
 
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#9
I put together a stocking list, and could use any advice or suggestions on it.

Currently what I have:
6" sailfin tang
True Percula Clown
6 Line Wrasse
Starry Blenny
Mandarin Dragonet
3 Azure Damsels
Peppermint Shrimp
Various snails, hermit crabs, etc.

What I'd like to get.
3 Leopard Wrasse
Red Velvet Fairy Wrasse
Royal Gramma
3 Zebra Dartfish
Dwarf Flame Angel
5 lyre tail Anthias
I'd also like to get 2 more tangs, purple, and a naso.
Everything would be roughly added in that order. Thoughts?
 
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#10
Tony, in that pic to the bottom left is a frog spawn, bottom right corner is a torch, the large green to the right of the tang is an open brain, and in the background blurred out is a rock covered in watermelon mushrooms. No pectinia though.
 
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#11
Stephen, my sump runs about 4" from the top, which is kind of close, but doesn't seem to cause any problems. All the loclines are drilled with two holes right underneath the waterline, so it breaks the siphone almost immediately. With all power cut so the the skimmer, chiller, and return line empty, the sump rises about 1 1/2" leaving 2 1/2" of empty space, which is about 6 1/2 gallons of empty space. I did forget to drill the anti-siphon holes at first and almost overflowed the sump, that was fun.
Thanks for the comments guys.
 
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#12
I added a 2 little fishies phosban reactor full of seachem carbon and hated having to use flashlight to see if the carbon was tumbling properly. It's pretty dark under my stand, especially with the light in the tank being so bright up above.


So I got some water resistant led rope light, and lit up a party in the stand.

Much better.
 
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#14
Got the parts for my DIY LED light day.


Except I'm missing something. The heatsinks. I ordered the makerled heatsinks from ledgroupbuy.com The packing list says they were shipped, but there was only one box in the shipment and no heatsinks. I emailed their customer support, and they responded quickly, but it was near the end of the work day, so ill have to wait until tomorrow to find out what's up.

I'm going to be running meanwell drivers with mostly cree LEDs.
28 cool white xte
28 royal blue xte
14 blue xpe
14 near ultra violets from rapidled
8 495nm turquoise
8 660nm deep red
So a total of 100 LEDs with 60 degree optics

I'm going to be mounting them on two 24" heatsinks, in 4 clusters, with emitters in concentric patterns, similar to radionics/ ai sol arrangements.
 
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#15
Looks like an awesome start! One comment though, only GFO and biopellets should be gently tumbling, carbon on the other hand should be restricted between two sponges or fill the container to avoid it tumbling. Otherwise it will break down and the carbon "dust" in the water has been shown to lead to lateral line disease in tangs.

Anyhow, I am stoked to see how the lights turn out and it looks like you have a heck of a build on your hands!
 
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#16
It doesn't really tumble per say. Just kind of moves a little. None of the pieces really change location or anything. But I guess you're saying any rubbing would cause issues? I'll adjust it.
Thanks for the advice!
 
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#17
Heard from LEDgroupbuy and they found the heatsinks. Apparently they forgot to fix them. In the meantime I tinned all the pads on the LEDs and built the dimmer controller.



 
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#18
So I haven't updated in 2 years and 4 months, but, you know, I got busy.

Old tank Shot:

Current tank shot:


My tank has been neglected, but even with algae blooms and less then regular water changes, it's done well.

I've lost almost all of my softies, gained a bunch of SPS, my frogspawn and blue Acro have gotten massively bigger, and I've changed almost all of my equipment.

Upgrades since last post:
LED light is finished and works fantastically.
Replaced the DJ switching station with a Neptune Apex control the dimming lighting, ATO, heating and cooling, etc. It consists of the brain and two EB8s, one in the stand and one in the hood.
Added two MP40s for a total of three (one is currently broken, usually in the middle)
Replaced GenX PCX40 return pump with a waveline DC 12000. Way overkill. Turned down to less than half. Pumping about twice as much water as the old pump while using moderately more electricity.
Switched 5 gallon ATO to a 20 gallon.

Replaced Octopus XS200 skimmer with Hydor Performer 2005 plummed externally (trying to reduce heat added to water) with one whole overflow gravity feeding it. This thing is a silent beast, I'm using a herbie style, with one stand pipe going down to 3/4" vinyl with a gate valve wide open to the skimmer feeding about 550 gph, and another 1" pvc in the other overflow with a gate valve wide open dumping into the sump through a filter sock. There is also a 1 1/2" backup overflow.

New sump, old sump cracked at the bulkhead for the external return pump. I recently made a new sump out of a 40 gallon breeder ($1 a gallon peptco sale). My success with the herbie method at managing bubbles led me to forgo all bubble traps in order to make more room for a refugium. Works just fine.
Also added a sump fan and a BRS dual media reactor with their GFO trying to fight off algae.

Up top wiring is a mess, but that's what hoods are for...


and now for livestock:
Sailfin Tang, in my care for 5 years

Sixline Wrasse

Clown, also 5 years

Mandarin Dragonet, 4 years

Kole Tang, New addition

Acro

Frogspawn

Three RBTA

And a torch that refuses to grow


There's also a couple more SPS, a bunch of watermelon mushrooms (anybody want a rock covered in them?), an open brain, and xenia.

The current thing I'm working on in the tank is lowering phosphates and removing algae. I've been building up my cleaning crew, added the GFO, and have used Phos RX once. Looking for a refugium light to add some chaeto to my tank.

After that would be removing all mojano anemone. I've been using aiptasia X and it's been working well. Just don't want to kill of too much at once.

Once those two under control I'll be looking to building up my fish stock.
 

Smite

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#19
Tank looks great. A long time between updates but very cool to see! Good work.
 

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