Water Change

JPLreefer

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#1
Its been 2 weeks since I did a water change on my 80 gallon display tank. I usually do a 15 gallon water change weekly. I was planning on doing a big water change, 20+ gallons next weekend or even during the week. How many gallons should I go and do if I am trying to lower phosphates (0.20) and Nitrates (0.15). I am also trying to recover from GHA, which seems to be dying off now that my biopellets have finally increased my bacteria. Also, if I do a big water change, should I introduce more beneficial bacteria? I forgot to mention that I haven't been doing that with my water changes. good or bad?
 
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#2
James,

Your PO4 is high, and so is NO3. I would suggest you do a 50% water change, and also run a GFO to kill it low. If your going to dose bacteria, then use Dr Tim Eco balance. You need weekly water change of 10%, but some of us just lazy and put off to 2 - 3 week.
 
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#3
We carry thrive for a reduction in your phosphates…. and Dr. Tims is a great product. Water changes never hurt either.. Cruise by and talk to Broc about your tank and we would be happy to put you on a plan of attack….
 

Zoarder

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#4
Water changes are good, but why are your phosphates so high or nitrates? Feeding too much? Overstock? Not a good skimmer? You need to find the source in order to reduce it.

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DeadCalm

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#6
Its been 2 weeks since I did a water change on my 80 gallon display tank. I usually do a 15 gallon water change weekly. I was planning on doing a big water change, 20+ gallons next weekend or even during the week. How many gallons should I go and do if I am trying to lower phosphates (0.20) and Nitrates (0.15). I am also trying to recover from GHA, which seems to be dying off now that my biopellets have finally increased my bacteria. Also, if I do a big water change, should I introduce more beneficial bacteria? I forgot to mention that I haven't been doing that with my water changes. good or bad?
What's in your tank?.....sps coral?.....or lps soft? It makes a big difference in the action plan knowing what you have in the tank.

Are your nitrates .15 or was that a typo and they're 15?
 

JPLreefer

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#7
No it was .15. Salifert nitrate test slightly darker than the .10 reading.

As far as what happened, had a sea hare in there that almost had my tank completely rid of gha. I was planning on taking it back to the LFS, but either my crabs got to it. It was missing its head. The sea hare was as big as my fist. When I took it out, it reaked bad. I did a 15 gallon water change. I also checked water and nitrates were at 5.

In the tank, softies(mushrooms, toadstools, zoas, finger leather) plus duncan and frogspawn.

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DeadCalm

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#8
Just keep in mind that a huge water change could do more harm then good if the new salt parameters don't match your tank parameters. We also don't know what water purification system your using and if you're getting 0 TDS.

How do your coral and fish look in the tank?

What phosphate test kit are you using?
 
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#9
Now that we know you don't have any sps, your parameters are not too concerning... IMO you should keep your nitrate around 5, completely stripping all nutrients from your system will have negative effects! I would continue the water changes of 10-20 percent and lower your feeding amounts. Maybe feed a small amount twice or three times daily depending on the amount and type of fish you own ( make sure to strain the juice out of your frozen and feed only the "meat" ). As for the P04, if you just set your biopellets up give them a while and monitor. If your P04 is dropping you know they are working. If the numbers stop decreasing and stay around say .10 i would add a little more until you figure out how much your system takes. In my sps system i found it is best to run a trace of phosphate and 5 ppm of nitrate. What kind of pellet reactor do you have? was the Gha before or after the slug died? what do you feed and how much? how many and what kind of fish? You need to find the source of nutrients so you can eliminate the possibilities of this happening in the future. GOOD LUCK!
 
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#10
I wouldn't worry too much about a HUGE water change. But, I would run gfo to get ur phosphates down. That will also help with killing off that algae. I wouldn't worry about nitrates, once ur bio pellets start doing there job, u won't have to worry about them
 

JPLreefer

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#12
Just keep in mind that a huge water change could do more harm then good if the new salt parameters don't match your tank parameters. We also don't know what water purification system your using and if you're getting 0 TDS.
BRS 5 stage drinking water and DI system 012 before DI, 0 TDS out.

How do your coral and fish look in the tank?
Fish look fine, Toadstools are not showing polyps and haven't shown them in months now. An acan that I was given died. Frogspawn havent fully extended but they are out a little, also grew a second head. Duncans have gone from a 3 head to about 13+ heads.

What phosphate test kit are you using?
Hanna Checker for Calcium, ALK, Phos.

What kind of pellet reactor do you have? was the Gha before or after the slug died? what do you feed and how much? how many and what kind of fish?
I converted my TLF GFO reactor to a biopellet reactor with GREAT tumble on my Dr. Tims Active pearls.
GHA was a problem before, hence the reason why i got the sea hare in the first place.
I feed Elos pellet food, 3 scoops.
I have 2 clown fish, blue tang, sixline, kohl tang, royal gramma, lawnmower blenny, so 7 fish total.

Chris, what do u mean red sea? Is that a phos remover? And what you your thoughts on brightwells Microbacter 7?
 

Six2seven

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#13
The water changes are only useful if you are adding clean water to your system. Test the phosphates before the water goes in your tank. Zero TDS doesn't mean zero phosphates.

Gfo will be your best friend with high phosphates but don't use too much at once or you could kill your good bacteria.
 
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#14
You might be feeding too much and there are not enough beneficial bacteria to break down the waste. 15g water change should be good enough. I would throw in a couple of turbo snails for the GHA. It's cheaper than GFO.
 

DeadCalm

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#15
Ok so it sounds like since your using bio pellets that your system has become nitrate limited. The pellets need both nitrate and phosphate to work 16/1 ratio. So you have a few options. Since you only have LPS and soft coral you could just start to do 10% weekly water changes again and it would solve your phosphate problem (as long as your ro water is good). Others are saying you're feeding too much, but with nitrate at .15 that doesn't sound like the case and you might be starving your coral (as long as your test kit is accurate). It just sounds like your system is nitrate limited allowing your phosphate to raise. I would recommend to feed more (frozen mysis ...drain the liquid) and try and get your nitrate up to say 2 or 5. That would allow your bio pellets to start working again and your current coral will be happier at those levels. Your going to get algae so just make sure you have a good cleanup crew.

How long has your tank been setup?
What brand of salt are you using and what do you keep your parameters at?
How much flow do you have? LPS and soft don't like to be pounded with flow and won't fully extent if they are.

Take it slow and don't do anything drastic and you will be fine.
 
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#16
Though your producing 0TDS water, what are you producing it into. I found that my storage barrel was leaching phosphates into my water. Just something to look into.
 
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