Fuge help

[deaclauderdale]

So the last system to bring online for the setup is my fuge. Tank is going sand and bacteria added so I’m 95% of the way there.

Here’s my current dilemma: when starting the fuge using my Vectra M1 at 28% the fuge will overflow before being able to purge the air from the line that terminates approximately 1/2 to 3/4 inches beneath the return section water line. I can regulate this by turning the M1 off right before the fuge overflows and then turning it right back on but we all know that is no bueno. If I have a power failure the fuge will overflow upon power restoration in its current state.

Do I continue to reduce the length of the line into the return section or do I dial back the M1 even further?

 

[deaclauderdale]

Guess I should add that when the fuge stops running the return line is actually submerged about 3 inches or so under water.

 

[joseserrano]

So the m1 feeds the refugium too fast? If that’s the case, add a valve

 

[deaclauderdale]

So the m1 feeds the refugium too fast? If that’s the case, add a valve

Yeah feeding to fast. Wasn’t wanting to add another valve and frankly didn’t even consider it but I can salary swap out the union and a true union ball valve there.

 

[joseserrano]

Valve is what I’d do. Easy and worth the peace of mind

 

[Emac909]

Drill I tiny breathing hole right above the water line on the exit line of the fuge. Let’s the water go out that line with out pressure

 

[Emac909]

I also like really slow flow in my fuge. It lets detritus settle in the fuge so the critters it there will feed off that detritus

 

[deaclauderdale]

Drill I tiny breathing hole right above the water line on the exit line of the fuge. Let’s the water go out that line with out pressure

How tiny? I also like very slow flow through the fuge and the ball valve like Jose mentioned is going to come in handy because the M1 also will feed my 2 media reactors and I’ll need to turn up the power on the M1 at that time.

 

[Emac909]

How tiny? I also like very slow flow through the fuge and the ball valve like Jose mentioned is going to come in handy because the M1 also will feed my 2 media reactors and I’ll need to turn up the power on the M1 at that time.

1/16” should be perfect just need an easy way for air to escape. So the tube isn’t pressurized. Imagine an old school hob overflow you know how the U tube has air in it when you first set it up. Then when you get the air out you get a full siphon. That’s all most what you want. You need an easy way out of the tube so air can leave and water can start to flow with out air blocking it’s path.

 

[Emac909]

I’ll also recommend you drill the hole in a 45 degree angled towards the water line. This is so you don’t get a venturi effect. If you fill the hole in a 45 away from water line the water pill air in as it passes by. Like how a skimmers venturi does. This will give you more micro bubbles. But if the hole is drilled in a 45 where the faces the water, when the water passes by the hole it will just squirt or dribble out the hole.

 

[Emac909]

If you wanna try to eliminate micro bubbles from coming out the fuge drain, then extend the line to where it all most touches the bottom of your sump. Then create a u tube from 45 elbows. Then the line that goes back up you want to cut it so it sits about 1” under the water line. This will create a baffle type effect

 

[deaclauderdale]

Here’s we’re I’m at so far. This is with a 3/32 hole.

https://youtube.com/shorts/MPxZ0hl-Lao?feature=share

And here’s where the fig gurgles if I turn the flow done to much on the Vectra. Have to have enough flow to keep the pipe totally submerged to prevent this. I order the valve and it should arrive tomorrow so let’s hope it addresses my issue.

https://youtube.com/shorts/RQfAoNuGqKA?feature=share

 

[Emac909]

I see many flaws in this design. One is what happens when cheato breaks up and clogs the the strainer pipe. Your going to get an overflow. I’d definitely add a float switch at the top of the fuge so that if the float switch gets activated that it will shut off the pump to the fuge.
But If it was me I’d ditch that strainer pipe and go with an overflow box like this

So if the teeth got clogged with algae or cheato the water would just pass over the top.

Now for the pipe you have currently setup, I highly suspect that the grates aren’t big enough to handle the amount of water that’s passing through the fuge.

Now for the sound I’d treat this setup like a derso drain pipe, but unfortunately you don’t have gravity on your side like you would have in a standard derso. So I would try adding a T to this pipe

Put a cap or plug on the T facing up then drill a hole like a durso drain pipe has. Hopefully that will ack like a silencer to make it quieter.

I don’t know if this is an option for you but maybe drill another hole in the side of the fuge and have a full siphon drain and make it like a herbie.

 

[deaclauderdale]

I see many flaws in this design. One is what happens when cheato breaks up and clogs the the strainer pipe. Your going to get an overflow. I’d definitely add a float switch at the top of the fuge so that if the float switch gets activated that it will shut off the pump to the fuge.
But If it was me I’d ditch that strainer pipe and go with an overflow box like this

So if the teeth got clogged with algae or cheato the water would just pass over the top.

Now for the pipe you have currently setup, I highly suspect that the grates aren’t big enough to handle the amount of water that’s passing through the fuge.

Now for the sound I’d treat this setup like a derso drain pipe, but unfortunately you don’t have gravity on your side like you would have in a standard derso. So I would try adding a T to this pipe

Put a cap or plug on the T facing up then drill a hole like a durso drain pipe has. Hopefully that will ack like a silencer to make it quieter.

I don’t know if this is an option for you but maybe drill another hole in the side of the fuge and have a full siphon drain and make it like a herbie.

I really appreciate the feedback. Not sure how much I want to modify this fuge built by AA. Adding the T to the pipe is a simple fix, but drilling maybe out of the question unless the other possible solutions simply don’t work.

I’m aslo concerned about the algal build up around the drain pipe and like the idea of adding a overflow box. Do you think I can silicon it in or will it not adhere because it’s acrylic on acrylic?

 

[tangreefkeeper]

drill a small hole and insert a piece of airline tubing.

i have done this on many tanks and it basically creates a "turbine" effect with the draining water

 

[Jimbo327]

You can either drill another hole on side of the fuge, and add a bulkhead with elbow opening above the surface of the water...for an emergency drain. Same concept as your DT overflow. In case the slots gets plugged. Or just cut the pipe with the slots in half, so it still provide straining, but harder to plug.

As far as stopping the siphon. Drill a small hole on the pipe that has a siphon, add an airline to the hole and have the end of the tubing just below/above surface of water. should stop any siphon, but may add some bubbles back into the pipe (if above surface) since it is similar to how your skimmer works.

But adding a valve should slow the flow down. Right now, it looks like you have too much flow into the fuge as the pipe with slots is submerged...which means it is barely keep up with getting the water out.

 

[deaclauderdale]

Should I drill the elbow in the center of the pic, or stick with adding the tee inside the fuge?


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[Jimbo327]

Umm, what are you trying to achieve? Breaking the siphon? I would not drill any piping outside of the sump/fuge. So don’t drill that elbow in middle of the pic because any water from that hole may spill out. But honestly looking at it again, cutting back the flow with a valve and adding the overflow box may be the best solution.

I think most of your problem can be solved with less flow into the fuge. The other problem is just fear of clogging the return. You either install an emergency drain or use a oveflow box to mitigate clogging.

 

[deaclauderdale]

Umm, what are you trying to achieve? Breaking the siphon? I would not drill any piping outside of the sump/fuge. So don’t drill that elbow in middle of the pic because any water from that hole may spill out. But honestly looking at it again, cutting back the flow with a valve and adding the overflow box may be the best solution.

I think most of your problem can be solved with less flow into the fuge. The other problem is just fear of clogging the return. You either install an emergency drain or use a oveflow box to mitigate clogging.

I have the valve installed and that’s helped some but now I’m having thy flushing effect in the return area that the fuge dumps into. Water level is at the right height in that chamber and then the fuge flushed adding more water that it should and causing the water level to rise and throwing off the ATK. I believe that’s caused by air still building up in the drain line from the fuge.


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[deaclauderdale]

Fuge is now working as it should. I added the ‘TEE’ and drilled an angled hole to let the air pressure out and dialed the pump back just a tab bit more and no flood or flushing. I order an additional optical sensor to add to the fuge to combat any algal caused floods that may try and arise.

Thank you all for your help!

And Happy New Year!


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