Jimbo’s CDA 250

Jimbo327

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#41
Here is how the external overflow box is setup. It is 1.5” drain.

Can this current setup be dead silent by adjusting a gate valve to slow flow? Or does it have to be converted to bean animal to be totally silent? (Not sure if a bean animal will fit in there as the bulkhead are really close)

27F80981-AF82-4BE4-BF8C-953E64A1B056.jpeg
 

Smite

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#42
Here is how the external overflow box is setup. It is 1.5” drain.

Can this current setup be dead silent by adjusting a gate valve to slow flow? Or does it have to be converted to bean animal to be totally silent? (Not sure if a bean animal will fit in there as the bulkhead are really close)

View attachment 99031
Isn't that already set up for bean animal? Main drain center, trickle drain right and emergency left? You'd just gate the main drain back until the water flows over the secondary pipe, it'll be very quiet.
 

Jimbo327

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#43
Okay, I wasn't sure. The bean animals I've seen has that U-shaped pipe on the main drain, and the secondary pipe has a durso (T with drilled cap). I just didn't know if the middle drain without the U-shaped pipe will cause a vortex and suck in air.
 

joseserrano

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#44
carbon dosing will also remove phosphate, just not as effective as other methods. Also be aware of carbon dosing dropping ph (especially when being added). Too much can also cause a bio film everywhere. Rocks, glass, pumps, tubing/pipes,...
 

Smite

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#45
Okay, I wasn't sure. The bean animals I've seen has that U-shaped pipe on the main drain, and the secondary pipe has a durso (T with drilled cap). I just didn't know if the middle drain without the U-shaped pipe will cause a vortex and suck in air.
That's how I ran my Modular Marine external overflow. I'm sure it depends somewhat on how much flow you are trying to push but I ran it exactly as pictured on my 180g. I left the main stand pipe out so I could reach back and swoosh any detritus down the drain. You'll be able to decide your overflow's internal water level by the secondary drain height. That should allow you to avoid any sucking of air on the main drain without all the added fittings. I had mine dialed in very well with 1.5" drains on that system.
 

Jimbo327

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#47
carbon dosing will also remove phosphate, just not as effective as other methods. Also be aware of carbon dosing dropping ph (especially when being added). Too much can also cause a bio film everywhere. Rocks, glass, pumps, tubing/pipes,...
I remember when carbon dosing was the latest craze, and people were adding vinegar, vodka, ethanol, sugar to their tanks. There were many tank crashes, biofilm takeover, huge pH drops, and oxygen depletion.

Yes, adding too much carbon will cause a bacterial bloom, but with today's technology of dosing pumps and controllers, I believe it can be effectively controlled and ultimately dialed in. We shall see when I find a reactor. But that may be far down the line as it'll only be needed when there is a large bioload...which to me...still seems very very far away for me.
 

joseserrano

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#48
I remember when carbon dosing was the latest craze, and people were adding vinegar, vodka, ethanol, sugar to their tanks. There were many tank crashes, biofilm takeover, huge pH drops, and oxygen depletion.

Yes, adding too much carbon will cause a bacterial bloom, but with today's technology of dosing pumps and controllers, I believe it can be effectively controlled and ultimately dialed in. We shall see when I find a reactor. But that may be far down the line as it'll only be needed when there is a large bioload...which to me...still seems very very far away for me.
Reactor? Are you going to do a sulfur reactor?
 

Jimbo327

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#49
Very similar concept as sulfur reactor, I’m trying to recreate an anaerobic environment so bacteria can convert nitrate to nitrogen. And driving that reaction with carbon dosing. This can result in foul smelling sulfur if too much carbon source is added or if nitrate is depleted. So these reactor will need to be cycled to match your tank parameters.

Yes, it’s a bit more work and complicated than chaeto in a refugium, but I want to try it because my goal is to feed the tank with lots of bacteria. If it doesn’t work out, then I can always plumb in an external refugium to the AA sump, throw in a ball of chaeto and call it a day.
 

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#50
You'll will most likely want a short pipe on the main drain so the inside water level will be high enough that is dampens the incoming water. The height of the main and secondary pipes will be based on the flow and gate valve of the main drain. When I set up my ghost overflow, I cut several small pieces of pvc starting around 2 1/2" up to 4" cutting enough in between at 1/2" increments until I found the right combo. The "U" pipe helps to reduce noise/gurgling and they should have a hole at the top on both drains.
 

Jimbo327

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#54
After drilling all the holes on the sump top bracing, I filled it up with tap water. Fingers crossed as this is a used sump that has been out of water for awhile. If no leaks tomorrow, I’ll clean up the sump and start to glue/silicone the loose baffle. And add some glue/silicone around windows as reinforcements.
476CE917-7DF9-4305-BEAC-209160C611FC.jpeg
 

Jimbo327

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#55
Thanks to all the fellow reefers’ kind words and feedback. It’s been very helpful.

I’ll probably be slowing down since the kids are out of school, and I’m back in the office full time.
 

Jimbo327

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#57
Finally got my doors back. Still have 1 more side of the stand that is light pink, so will need to head to HD to get some paint.

It's dangerous now going to Ali's LFS, he knows that I'm back in the hobby. So I was checking if he had bulkheads (he doesn't) and instead got a Neptune Trident (that he is taking offline from his system). I'll try it and if I don't like it, I'll just offload it later.
 
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Jimbo327

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#58
This tank does have 1 strange quirk, it has 3 holes drilled for return. This one hole is problematic because it is way lower, and can siphon back/cause flooding at the sump. I plan to use this return hole as my UV/Chiller line.

I will add a check valve on this line as a precaution. I will also route the piping and add air line siphon break in a certain way to make sure this problematic return will not siphon back into sump. I don’t expect the check valve to stop all the flow back, but at least slow it down for the siphon to break. If it doesn’t work, then I will have no choice but to cap it off.

I don’t know why they drill return hole that low unless it is for closed loop.
7163B434-D719-4F5F-9F41-DB165FE13795.jpeg
 
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#59
maybe link multiple loc-lines toward the surface and then try to hide it behind rock?

that'd worry me a lot

even if the check valve works right initially, it might not in a year
 

Jimbo327

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#60
That’s the downside of getting used equipment, some times just have to work around non-ideal situations.

I thought about the loc lines, which will probably work, but it’s going to look super ghetto too. 😂 I will figure it out later when I get some of the plumbing parts in.

I’ve stockpiled a lot of used equipment, but starting to run low on funds as I try to pull everything together. It’s pretty wild how much I’ve sunk into this setup, and right now it’s just a pile of stuff in my garage.
 
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