NEED HELP.............. brown slime

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#21
Your container might be leeching PO4 into the mixed salt water. What salt are you using?


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I was using IO previously, but now I switched to Reef Crystals. I get that brown sludge in the container with BOTH types of salt not just the IO. When storing, I just put the lid on the brute; no powerhead, no heater. And I think the lid is far from airtight (don't know if it has to be).
 
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#22
I was using IO previously, but now I switched to Reef Crystals. I get that brown sludge in the container with BOTH types of salt not just the IO. When storing, I just put the lid on the brute; no powerhead, no heater. And I think the lid is far from airtight (don't know if it has to be).
no way... IO and reef crystal mix so clean there shouldnt be any brown sludge in the container.... but you should have the water aerated while its in storage.
 
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#23
no way... IO and reef crystal mix so clean there shouldnt be any brown sludge in the container.... but you should have the water aerated while its in storage.
Ya Bro something is very wrong if you have brown residue with IO.

I've mixed a good 375 gallons of IO salt in 3 months, in 2 separate containers, haven't had any residue, clean as a whistle.


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#25
As previous posts suggest I would bet money it's your Brute leaching phosphates. Years ago someone did a whole thread on Brute leaching phosphates. I know tons of reefers use Brute with no issues but I don't trust 'em, but I'm paranoid in general.
 

Clifford

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#26
Its most likely your rocks and sand leeching. In my experience making weird changes especially excessive water changes, excessive oxygen, or bad light bulbs will cause stored nitrate and phosphate to release from rocks and sand causing insane algae outbreaks. WC, GFO, Carbon, less photoperiod etc will help it go away just takes time.
 
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#27
Mine is still hanging out but removing the pest during WC does help a bit.

I hate this crap.


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#29
Has anyone tested for silicate? I know it should be non existant with our rodi but that still doesnt mean anything
Will test when my buzz wears off. I knew buying that silicate test at the MD sidewalk sale, was a good idea


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bigronbo

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#30
i have a 125 that i only do water changes if the nitrates build but it is well ballanced now so about 5-10 gal every 3-4 months.
 

Clifford

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#31
GFO removes silicate and most di resins do as well. I rarely test for silicates due to using good salt mixes with good rodi water and gfo/ecobak.
 
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#32
GFO removes silicate and most di resins do as well. I rarely test for silicates due to using good salt mixes with good rodi water and gfo/ecobak.
Alot of things in our life SHOULD do something or perform in a certain way however we all know that at times they dont therefore silicates could very well be an issue and need to be tested for.
 

Clifford

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#35
Alot of things in our life SHOULD do something or perform in a certain way however we all know that at times they dont therefore silicates could very well be an issue and need to be tested for.
I just don't see the point of spending the money. Its apparent that they have in some amount nitrate, phosphate, and silicates. The cure is the same for all and I would spend my money curing the problem not validating the fact that I have it. For me the clear indication is the algae and I personally go all out to get rid of it quickly. WC, replacing the carbon, and replacing the gfo after making sure all my equipment is in good working order. I think if you have the test kit already, then I can see your point. I wasn't trying to start a debate with you or say you are wrong, just merely giving my insight into their issue and how I would go about it.
 
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#40
you think maybe too much lights?
I cut them by 2 hours on actinics and 1 hour all. I'm gonna change the carbon and suck the crap out, when I do the WC.

Gfo is new an it's a lot. Where I sucked it out it didn't return.


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