So confused!!!! Please enlighten
- Thread starter kyroshi
- Start date
I don't think you seated it correctly. It should sort of pop in. You are suppose to use food grade lube to seat the new one. Is the rating higher on the new membrane? Which wouldn't mean crap but I was thinking maybe it isn't the right one?
Also do you have any restrictions on your waste line exit? That will make you have Tds in your "clean"water
Also do you have any restrictions on your waste line exit? That will make you have Tds in your "clean"water
good adviseCould the DI cartridge be spent? A little more back ground. Prior to replacing the membrane tds was 350 out of the membrane and when it hit the DI unit it was at about 200 then 160 out of the DI. It was only ran this way for about 10 gallons... Then I noticed the reading. Changed membrane and it brought it all down but out of DI is higher...
Cartridges for the DI are installed correctly.
I am going to replaces the cartridges with new media tonight... Have a feeling they are spent since the system was passing high tds water through it. Now that the membrane has been replaced the tds has lowered dramatically but the DI can't get it to 0...
I appreciate the suggestions and help you guys gave
I am going to replaces the cartridges with new media tonight... Have a feeling they are spent since the system was passing high tds water through it. Now that the membrane has been replaced the tds has lowered dramatically but the DI can't get it to 0...
I appreciate the suggestions and help you guys gave
This is what I was thinking.
Remember, the higher the tds going into the di carts, the faster they become spent.
If you had 200tds going into them due to bad membranes, they would become spent superfast and not be able to hold more, which would allow the crap to just bypass the cartridges.
I was talking to Aaron at sps coral store about this the other day. He told me that the maxcap should put out 0tds into the silicabuster. Any more than 2tds going into the silicabuster is going to prematurely fill it up. The silicabuster should only need to be changed every 2 maxcap cartridge changes.
Remember, the higher the tds going into the di carts, the faster they become spent.
If you had 200tds going into them due to bad membranes, they would become spent superfast and not be able to hold more, which would allow the crap to just bypass the cartridges.
I was talking to Aaron at sps coral store about this the other day. He told me that the maxcap should put out 0tds into the silicabuster. Any more than 2tds going into the silicabuster is going to prematurely fill it up. The silicabuster should only need to be changed every 2 maxcap cartridge changes.
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Thank you Jim. Im going to pick up this today: http://www.marinedepot.com/SpectraP...er_Kits-SpectraPure-SP344061-FIRORPKT-vi.html Its the higher version of what I have in there now.
That's what I use. Make sure the maxcap is before the silicabuster.
Another thing that helps is to place a t inline between the ro membrane and the maxcap with a small ball valve and a hose so that when the valve is closed water flows into the di cartridge and when open water will flow out into a bucket or sink. This way you can flush the system of any higher tds water before it reaches ro di cartridges.
This helps remove tds creep and improves di life
By they Aaron carries those di cartridges in store.
Another thing that helps is to place a t inline between the ro membrane and the maxcap with a small ball valve and a hose so that when the valve is closed water flows into the di cartridge and when open water will flow out into a bucket or sink. This way you can flush the system of any higher tds water before it reaches ro di cartridges.
This helps remove tds creep and improves di life
By they Aaron carries those di cartridges in store.
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Just for everyone else, the membrane isn't all that difficult to install wrong. Even to get the old one out I struggled. The first time I seated mine it wasn't seated properly. I knew because the cap wasn't going on perfectly. Once I took out the new membrane and pushed it in all the way I got the cap on without issues.
Just curious what kind of tds meter is it i have the hannah one that i ordered from brs dual line and re calibrate it every time i change the filters with the hannah tds calibration solution. my current tds meter only has one calibration pot which you can only calibrate one side dead on which i do my di exit side to know exactly what im getting out after all . On my next brs order gonna swoop up the tds meter with dual calibration pots.
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I made a quick drawing on where to place an extra t and ball valve for flushing the water to prevent tds creep.
After its plumbed, when you start making water just open the valve and allow the water to drain for a couple of minutes than close the valve and continue on like normal. This flushes the water that's been sitting in the prefilters and membrane, lowering the initial start yp tds goning into your di resin.
I do this in addition to the manual flush kit
After its plumbed, when you start making water just open the valve and allow the water to drain for a couple of minutes than close the valve and continue on like normal. This flushes the water that's been sitting in the prefilters and membrane, lowering the initial start yp tds goning into your di resin.
I do this in addition to the manual flush kit
I made a quick drawing on where to place an extra t and ball valve for flushing the water to prevent tds creep.
After its plumbed, when you start making water just open the valve and allow the water to drain for a couple of minutes than close the valve and continue on like normal. This flushes the water that's been sitting in the prefilters and membrane, lowering the initial start yp tds goning into your di resin.
I do this in addition to the manual flush kit
After its plumbed, when you start making water just open the valve and allow the water to drain for a couple of minutes than close the valve and continue on like normal. This flushes the water that's been sitting in the prefilters and membrane, lowering the initial start yp tds goning into your di resin.
I do this in addition to the manual flush kit
