Thinking about getting an anemone, BUT...

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#1
So, my tank has been pretty stable thus far and just over the one year mark and I was thinking about getting an anemone for my clowns. The problem is that I am limited on space in the sandbed due to my aquascape and ideally, the anemone would have to stay in the back corner of my tank where there may not be sufficient light for it. Also, that's the area my clowns sleep and go for shelter when startled.

I mean, there's room in the front too (some tight space on the side), but I don't know if I can keep anemone's next to certain corals and don't want to take a whole lot of real estate. Which brings me to the next question, what kind of anemone? Maxi mini or something like a bubble tip, etc.

My tank:
50g 24x24x20 cube
18g sump (GFO/Carbon, biopellets, skimmer)
Radion LED
2 MP10's

Feedback is greatly appreciated! Thanks!
 
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#2
Rbta for sure! And they usually plant their foot inside of a crevice in the rocks. Once they find good flow and good light they will be happy! Also feeding them helps
 
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Rbta for sure! And they usually plant their foot inside of a crevice in the rocks. Once they find good flow and good light they will be happy! Also feeding them helps
My only concern about anemones is that they move. It's just a question of how far it will move relative of where I place it. But I can afford giving it the left side of the tank on the sand bed, but I wouldn't want it passing more than that due to corals on the sand bed in the front.

And how fast do RBTA's grow/split? Size is another factor.
 
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My only concern about anemones is that they move. It's just a question of how far it will move relative of where I place it. But I can afford giving it the left side of the tank on the sand bed, but I wouldn't want it passing more than that due to corals on the sand bed in the front.

And how fast do RBTA's grow/split? Size is another factor.
Depends how much you feed em. And they will move around a lot if they do not feel comfortable in the spot, you can help them stay put by creating an eggcrate cage for them.
 
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#5
Rbtas are rock dwellers so probably ok from moving across the corals on your sand bed. They will move tho it's just the risk you take when we also have corals.

Your clowns won't host a maxi mini although it might eat them. Careful with those... Never lost a fish to mine but it does happen.
 
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#6
u could always gamble by using a tooth pick and sticking it in the rock then firmly planting the nem on it...the nem wont be able to move but u have to make sure its in the perfect spot....and +1 to what luis said....i used to feed my nems everyday and they were perfectly fine....now i dont and they walk around every couple days


Depends how much you feed em. And they will move around a lot if they do not feel comfortable in the spot, you can help them stay put by creating an eggcrate cage for them.
 
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Thanks for the feedback guys! It's very helpful. I also found an anemone FAQ off RC that is helping fill in the blanks.

Still researching and looking for a healthy specimen if anyone knows where to get one...
 
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i have a little rukis rainbow walking around somewhere...as soon as it pops up ill PM u

Thanks for the feedback guys! It's very helpful. I also found an anemone FAQ off RC that is helping fill in the blanks.

Still researching and looking for a healthy specimen if anyone knows where to get one...
 
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I got a RBTA from Jason this afternoon. I just put him in after two hours of dripping. I placed it where I wanted it and it's slowly finding it's way towards the back of my tank, not far from where I put him. This is a crappy iPhone pic though. Tips have good color, but still retracted.

 
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RBTAs are the best and most common because they are the only anemone with a chance at long term survival in the captive reef. in fact, given bright enough light, low flow and perfect params they can split quite often; so if you can get a multigenerational tank bred RBTA its pretty hardy and very environmentally responsible. But they do move and get large. you'll have to plan your coral around their moods.

lotsa people try carpet anemone because they dont move as much and they are quite beautiful. but they have a 99% 1-yr mortality rate, and are less fish friendly. if you can sustain a blue or red carpet Stichodactyla haddoni you're the man!
 
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#12
Here it is the day after I got it. It moved a bit from where I put it and it's currently in the back of the tank by the clowns. Of course, the clowns could care less. Haha We'll see how it does...

 
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So just an update, the larger of the two clowns started hosting the anemone. At first, it was acting funny and kicking sand on it, then it started nibbling on it's tentacles, and now it's rubbing up on it. The smaller clown hasn't gone to it yet, but it's still a small anemone, even for one clown. All in all, great progress! The anemone still looks healthy and hasn't moved.

One question though, is this all my clownfish will do from now on? Haha He's been at it for a while. I mean, he still swims around, but he's just rubbing up for the most part.
 
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#14
because they are the only anemone with a chance at long term survival in the captive reef.
What?! I know this statement to be false, as is your other statement about S. haddonis (which are possibly easier to keep than E. quadricolor). If you don't really know what you're talking about, why make stuff up?

Confuse - its been a couple of weeks since you last wrote, so assuming your anemone is still doing well, your clown probably doesn't leave it :) On the reef they locate anemones by smell, so sometimes when a captive-raised clown first encounters an anemone in a reef tank, they aren't exactly sure what is going on - just that they really REALLY want to get close to something that smells good :) They are protected from the anemone sting by a slime coating on their body that causes the anemone to think they are just another part of the anemone body - and it is believed that all the rolling and wiggling in the anemone is an attempt by the clown to stay coated in slime :)

To build on what others have been saying - your BTA's size can be regulated somewhat by minimizing supplemental feeding, but not always. Under the right lighting a BTA will grow and get pretty large without any supplemental feeding at all (aside from what it randomly picks out of the water column, or waste products from the clowns). They may or may not asexually reproduce in your tank; some types will split very easily while other types will grow larger and larger and not split at all (some scientists believe there may even be two different sub-species). BTA's are rock anemones and they have the lowest light requirements of any of the clown anemones - but that is no guarantee that they won't wander. Once they settle in, they SHOULD stay put for a while - but if you are growing corals, changes in waterflow, lighting, etc, over time may change the microhabitat around the anemone and give it wanderlust...
 
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#15
my mistake...

What?! I know this statement to be false, as is your other statement about S. haddonis (which are possibly easier to keep than E. quadricolor). If you don't really know what you're talking about, why make stuff up?
I never "make stuff up" as i take responsibility for any advice or post I make. I do sometimes make recall mistakes as I have been reading reefing articles since 2001 and its hard to keep it all straight sometimes.

You are correct that the saddle carpet anemonae Stichodactyla haddoni is easy to keep, Ive had 2 and both lasted 1-2 years.

The impossible to keep carpet anemonae is Stichodactyla gigantea, or the giant carpet anemonae.

I try to publish my sources of info when I can. Usually people are not interested in reading and just want someone they trust to tell them what to do based on their experience. But everyone has an experience and opinion. So I encourage people to look at papers with reproducible studies, discuss with knowledable trained people, preferably with a degree or formal training, and make up their own minds. Seems too nerdy for most people as well. -sigh- whats a person to do?



http://www.reefs.org/library/article/r_toonen8.html
http://fins.actwin.com/species/anemone.html
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemonef.htm
http://saltaquarium.about.com/od/seaanemoneprofiles/ss/sbsanemonesurvey.htm
http://saltaquarium.about.com/od/seaanemoneprofiles/ss/sbsanemonesurvey.htm
http://saltaquarium.about.com/od/seaanemoneprofiles/ss/sbsanemonesurvey_2.htm
http://saltaquarium.about.com/od/seaanemoneprofiles/ss/sbsanemonesurvey_3.htm
http://saltaquarium.about.com/od/seaanemoneprofiles/ss/sbsanemonesurvey_4.htm
http://saltaquarium.about.com/od/seaanemoneprofiles/ss/sbsanemonesurvey_5.htm
http://saltaquarium.about.com/od/seaanemoneprofiles/ss/sbsanemonesurvey_6.htm
http://saltaquarium.about.com/od/seaanemoneprofiles/ss/sbsanemonesurvey_7.htm
http://saltaquarium.about.com/od/seaanemoneprofiles/ss/sbsanemonesurvey_8.htm
http://saltaquarium.about.com/od/seaanemoneprofiles/ss/sbsanemonesurvey_9.htm

sorry so many links. These are mostly pre-2009. If someone has more current info, please post.

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2010/2/inverts
 
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What?! I know this statement to be false, as is your other statement about S. haddonis (which are possibly easier to keep than E. quadricolor). If you don't really know what you're talking about, why make stuff up?

Confuse - its been a couple of weeks since you last wrote, so assuming your anemone is still doing well, your clown probably doesn't leave it :) On the reef they locate anemones by smell, so sometimes when a captive-raised clown first encounters an anemone in a reef tank, they aren't exactly sure what is going on - just that they really REALLY want to get close to something that smells good :) They are protected from the anemone sting by a slime coating on their body that causes the anemone to think they are just another part of the anemone body - and it is believed that all the rolling and wiggling in the anemone is an attempt by the clown to stay coated in slime :)

To build on what others have been saying - your BTA's size can be regulated somewhat by minimizing supplemental feeding, but not always. Under the right lighting a BTA will grow and get pretty large without any supplemental feeding at all (aside from what it randomly picks out of the water column, or waste products from the clowns). They may or may not asexually reproduce in your tank; some types will split very easily while other types will grow larger and larger and not split at all (some scientists believe there may even be two different sub-species). BTA's are rock anemones and they have the lowest light requirements of any of the clown anemones - but that is no guarantee that they won't wander. Once they settle in, they SHOULD stay put for a while - but if you are growing corals, changes in waterflow, lighting, etc, over time may change the microhabitat around the anemone and give it wanderlust...
bro really... you are like the nem police......:mod:
 
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#17
most important info ive ever read about reef anemones

I wish these guys published the raw data, but they surveyed over 100 reefers.

So this is not a controlled experiment, but large enough survey so that it is not merely the opinion of 1 person. I have used it as my guide to all those critical anemone questions several years ago.

Host Sea Anemone Survivability Survey

Over the years, the knowledge of how to maintain even "difficult" corals in an aquarium has expanded dramatically. Unfortunately, the knowledge of what it takes to maintain anemones for any length of time in an aquarium have not kept pace. To be sure, progress is being made, but keeping an anemone in an aquarium for any length of time is still a serious challenge for most aquarists.
Many aquarists desire to experience the Clownfish/Anemone relationship in their own tanks. In their haste, many try to simply add an Anemone to their Fish Only or Fish Only With Live Rock tank in the belief that the anemone will do well. All too often, the advice given to new anemone owners is: "give them some light, an occasional piece of shrimp and they'll do fine." Unfortunately, this is a recipe for disaster.

In early 2009, the Host Sea Anemone Survey was undertaken. Over 100 current or previous owners of various species of Sea Anemones responded.

As with previous studies, this study found no "silver bullet" which guaranteed success with anemones. There were a number of significant items of interest, however. It appears that the Frequency of Feeding has an influence on the anemone's health and longevity.

The Intensity & Duration of Light per Day which the anemones received was also significant. One might think that the longer the light period, the better the anemone would do, but this was not always the case.

One area that seem to indicate a definite trend in the information is the Tank Temperature vs. Anemone Survivability results. It would seem that the popular advice for tank temperatures for anemones is little more than a myth.

The Water Source results were more than a bit interesting, even though, due to the small sampling size of one of the sources, they can't be considered conclusive.


Aquarist Experience vs Average Anemone Survival


Aquarist Experience vs Average Anemone Survival
While it would be impossible for an aquarist with only one year's experience in the hobby to have an anemone which had been alive in his or her system for longer than that, the experience level of the study respondents seems to have a marked difference in an anemone's survival. The age of the tank (cycled with stable water parameters) would, no doubt, be a factor but it is interesting that on average, the more experienced the aquarists, the more often their anemones were fed.

1 year experience: 15 anemones survived an average of 7.5 months.

2 years experience: 23 Anemones survived an average of 11.3 months.

3 years experience: 20 Anemones survived an average of 19.75 months.

4 years experience: 17 Anemones survived an average of 18.8 months.

5 years experience: 8 Anemones survived an average of 34.8 months.

6+ years experience: 33 Anemones survived average of 22.7 months.


Survival Rate by Feedings per Month

The frequency at which the anemones in this study were fed seemed to make a noticeable difference in their survival. The percentage of anemones which were still alive at the time of the study was most noticeable in relation to the frequency at which the anemones were fed each month:

1-2 Feedings per month
36% still alive
4 Feedings per month

66% still alive
15 Feedings per month
60% still alive
30 Feedings per month
92% still alive


Number of Anemones by Species in the Survey and Their Average Life Spans

59 Bubble Tip Anemones
Avg. Life Span 20.5 months

8 Carpet Anemone
Avg. Life Span 20.5 months

12 Condylactus
Avg. Life Span 16.7 months

12 Long Tentacle Anemone
Avg. Life Span 15 months

2 Quadricolor Anemone
Avg. Life Span 32 months

15 Sebae Anemone
Avg. Life Span 12.2 months

There was no distinction by the study respondents in their "Sebae" Anemone species between the Delicate (Sebae, Hawaiian or White Sand) Heteractis malu and the Leathery (Sebae) Heteractis crispa Anemones.

Due to the widespread availability of the Leathery (Sebae) Heteractis crispa Anemones in the aquarium trade and the poor survivability of the Delicate (Sebae, Hawaiian or White Sand) Heteractis malu Anemone, it is assumed that the "Sebae's in this study are the Leathery Sebae Anemone.


Intensity & Duration of Light per Day

The light wattage per gallon of tank water seemed to have an affect on the longevity of the anemones in the study. Light amounts at the lower end (below 3 WPG) shortened the life span by about half. It appears that lighting above 3 WPG and even more so into the 4 WPG range was beneficial, but above 5 WPG didn't seem to add significantly.
The light period per day that was given to the anemones in this study seemed to have a significant affect on their lifespan in an aquarium. As the graph below indicates, increasing the light period from 9 to 11 hours to day was beneficial, while anything over 11 hours seems to have actually had the opposite effect.


Salinity vs. Anemone Survival

The results of the Salinity vs. Anemone Survival test were quite surprising and may just be a statistical anomaly or the fact that most of the popular plastic swing arm salinity testers in use in the hobby are not very accurate. There isn't any apparent reason why an anemone would survive longer at a SG of 1.023 or 1.025 than they would at 1.024. On the other hand, who knows?? We may have stumbled on to something.
Even when the years of experience were factored in to the SG survivability, it doesn't seem to make a significant difference. The 1.024ers and the 1.026ers had an average of 3.4 years experience while the 1.025ers had an average of 5.2 years of experience.


Tank Temperature vs. Anemone Survivability

One area of the Study which did show some definite trends was in the tank temperatures at which the anemones were kept. Anemones which were kept in tanks with temperatures below 76 F. did not fare well at all. Most marine retailers advise to keep anemones at between 72 and 78 F. which would appear to be very bad advice.
In this study, anemones which were kept at 76 to 78 F. lived nearly 3 times longer than anemones kept at lower (71 to 75 F.) temperatures. This makes a lot of sense when you consider that the temperatures of the oceans where anemones come from are in the mid 80's to over 90 degrees.



Anemone Survival Survey - Water Source
In this survey, RO water was by far the most popular source, which is not a major surprise. Below are listed the different water sources in the survey, followed by the number of people using that source, then the average life span of their anemones.
NSW - 4 - 36.2 mo.
RO - 78 - 19.3 mo.
Tap - 19 - 12.5 mo.
Well - 2 - 6.9 mo.
Other - 12 - 12.5 mo.


The huge difference in the graph below (twice the life span) between Natural Sea Water and RO water makes a lot of sense due to all of the extra "goodies" (plankton, trace minerals and who really knows what all else) in sea water should be an advantage. The small number of NSW users in this study makes it difficult to draw any valid conclusions as to its significance. At the same time, providing water from the environment where the animal came from makes a lot of sense.


Host Sea Anemone Survivability Survey - Conclusions
As stated earlier, this study did not produce a "silver bullets" for anemone survival in an aquarium. There were, however some distinct indicators as to what anemones seem to prefer.
Taking into account all of the factors and survey results, if one was going to attempt to keep an anemone long term, the following parameters would appear to be the best:
1. Natural Sea Water
2. Salinity of 1.026
3. Feed once per day
4. 11 hours per day lighting
5. Tank water at 86 F.
 
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#18
What?! I know this statement to be false, as is your other statement about S. haddonis (which are possibly easier to keep than E. quadricolor). If you don't really know what you're talking about, why make stuff up?

Confuse - its been a couple of weeks since you last wrote, so assuming your anemone is still doing well, your clown probably doesn't leave it :) On the reef they locate anemones by smell, so sometimes when a captive-raised clown first encounters an anemone in a reef tank, they aren't exactly sure what is going on - just that they really REALLY want to get close to something that smells good :) They are protected from the anemone sting by a slime coating on their body that causes the anemone to think they are just another part of the anemone body - and it is believed that all the rolling and wiggling in the anemone is an attempt by the clown to stay coated in slime :)

To build on what others have been saying - your BTA's size can be regulated somewhat by minimizing supplemental feeding, but not always. Under the right lighting a BTA will grow and get pretty large without any supplemental feeding at all (aside from what it randomly picks out of the water column, or waste products from the clowns). They may or may not asexually reproduce in your tank; some types will split very easily while other types will grow larger and larger and not split at all (some scientists believe there may even be two different sub-species). BTA's are rock anemones and they have the lowest light requirements of any of the clown anemones - but that is no guarantee that they won't wander. Once they settle in, they SHOULD stay put for a while - but if you are growing corals, changes in waterflow, lighting, etc, over time may change the microhabitat around the anemone and give it wanderlust...
Alot of great info, thanks! And the anemone has been doing well. It hasn't moved and has retained it's color and size. I'm surprised because the back of the tank where the clowns reside doesn't really get a large amount of light, but I guess it's happy there since it didn't move yet. My clown isn't inseparable from the anemone, it just rubs itself on it on ocassion (from my observation), but it still roams the tank like it always did pre-anemone--especially when somebody approaches the tank. Would this behavior be considered "hosting" or what ever the right term is?
 
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#19
I also want one. Sorry to thread jack. I saw a sweet pink bubble tip that is rather flat and wide that I have my good eye on. Am I gonna regret it?


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